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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My 2004 needs a new transfercase. Somehow many of the gears have have completely become destroyed, I don't know how it was still driving but when I pulled the inspection plate a handful of gear teeth fell out and I could see an awful mess where the pieces came from. I am ordering a used replacement and was wondering what else I might need ( new seals, bearings ???) and any advise from anybody who has changed one before. I have it 99% disconnected. Two bolts and the shifter cable are still connected. Crossbars, mufflers and all other items specified in the Rave have been done.

Ideas ? Suggestions ?
 

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My 2004 needs a new transfercase. Somehow many of the gears have have completely become destroyed, I don't know how it was still driving but when I pulled the inspection plate a handful of gear teeth fell out and I could see an awful mess where the pieces came from. I am ordering a used replacement and was wondering what else I might need ( new seals, bearings ???) and any advise from anybody who has changed one before. I have it 99% disconnected. Two bolts and the shifter cable are still connected. Crossbars, mufflers and all other items specified in the Rave have been done.

Ideas ? Suggestions ?
I would definitely re-seal it while it's out as well as change the output bearings/seals. Then get a heavy duty trans jack and a helper. Those things are ****ing heavy!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Anyone know how much the transfer case weights? I am purchasing a transmission jack and was wonder what size I need. Also, any recommendations on which bearings and seals are the best.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
quick question:
I have everything disconnected but when I slide the transfer case back it is hitting the frame cross member before the splines clear the opening. What is the trick ?

The Rave is a little vague:

step 31. With assistance, remove transfer box from gearbox.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I now have the old T-case out. Waiting for new seals and bearing for the used T-case I purchased. The method that worked for me was to remove the plate on the opposite side of the input shaft. That gave an extra inch of clearance which was plenty to remove it. I plan on removing the plate on the new box to help with the install so that I don't mess up the new seal. While waiting on parts I need to fix the bolt that broke off the exhaust manifold during the disassembly.

I still can't figure out how this vehicle was running with so many gear teeth missing. Glad I didn't wait any longer.
 

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In my case I lowered the tranny using a jack until the ignition coils were just about to touch the AC pipes on the firewall. This gives plenty of room to remove or install the TC without having to remove the PTO / input shaft cover plate. The most important thing putting it back is to make sure to have some way of supporting the TC so you don't damage the TC input shaft seal, or the tranny output shaft seal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I am having the toughest time finding the bearings for the main input shaft.

I have the main seal and intermediate bearings and output bearings, but nobody seems to have the main bearings.

Should I worry about changing these or just do the output bearings only? I thought I would replace as much as possible before putting it back together.
 

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Replacing the output shaft bearings is easy. But replacing the input shaft bearings is a completely different game. They are Timken bearings and to get to them you have to disassemble the whole transfer case. Then you have to rebuild it with the correct preloads using the right shims. It's not hard but it's a long process, with precision measurements and the right tools. I did it using the rebuild kit from Ashcroft transmissions and it took me about two full days work just for the rebuild, taking lots of notes and checking off one item after the other in the LT-230 transfer case manual.

Unless you can feel something is wrong with those bearings, or if you think they ate chunks of metal from other bearings, I would leave them alone.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ok, New T-Case is in the vehicle. As a one man operation it has been a challenge. Lucky the vehicle is not a daily driver so I have been taking my time to make sure everything is done correctly ( or at least to the best of my abilities ). Somewhere in the process some of my wire labels fell off and I am down to 2 sensors that I am not sure about. I have searched the rave and the forum but I am not confident about which sensor is which. They both have the same wire colors. appears to be green/Brown and Light green/Yellow. Can somebody point me in the right direction. I am ready to finish this project and hit the mountain trails.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Ok, so I tried your advice. Both switches light up the diff lock light. I did a little research on the T-Case that I pulled out ( see photos) and noticed that the switch #1 is engaged by the brass sliding mechanism that is spring loaded and switch #2 is sensing a depression in the shaft. It appears they must both be engaged to verify everything is locked correctly. Still not sure which plug in the wiring harness each one goes into.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
since both sensors involved the diff lock I just flipped a coin and plugged them in the two remaining sockets. The truck is on the road again. It has not run this quiet and smooth for many years.

Overall the T-case swap was not to difficult but did require a lot of time and patience but the cost savings definitely justified the project. $250 for a used T-case on ebay with free shipping and the purchase of a transmission jack $99.

I will hit the mountains this week and give it a complete test.
 
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