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Discussion Starter #1
Please help. I am a new member and have cruised your forums but not found the answer to my questions.
I have owned a 2011 Range Rover Sport for a year. It has 133K on the clock. When I was returning from a road trip to New Orleans I noticed a grinding noise form the driveline. It sounds like a failing bearing, and I suspected it could be the transfer case as it is right under the drivers seat. It is there both during acceleration and deceleration, but not at standstill.
I took it to the local dealer who diagnosed it as a failed front differential and wanted around $3500 to fit a replacement. I was a little uneasy about that and took the car to the local shop who like me thinks the noise is from the transfer case. They looked at the oil in the differential and it looked good. My local garage is good and honest. Since there is a difference of opinion, $3500 seems to be an expensive bet, so I asked if they would fit a used transfer case.
Used Truck and Car Parts Unlimited offered one for $548 incl. shipping. They would match it to the VIN number, not just the lowest mileage.
The local garage is worried that fitting the transfer case would require the car to be reprogrammed afterwards, which only the dealer can do. Is that the case?
Does anyone have a better source for a used transfer case? It sounds reassuring they would match it to the VIN number, but of course I worry about getting the right and a good part.
I shall appreciate any thought you might have.
Thank you.:dunno::dunno:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Further problems

Please help again.

I had a used transfer case with 75000 miles on it put in. Going straight the car drives very quietly now.
However, if I turn to either side while driving, there is stuttering, or a pulsing feeling, and it appears to be getting worse. I also feel that there has come a very subtle similar feeling when going straight. I also think I can feel it when the car is put into Drive, but not moving yet. Turning the steering from lock to lock while stationary does not bring on the pulsing, so it is not the steering. It is the same if reversing.

I also had the shop change the front and rear differential oils. They bought the oils from the Land Rover dealer.

Also, maybe ten seconds after turning off the engine, there is aloud click form underneath the car, roughly from where the transfer case sits.

Does anyone have any idea what could cause these problems?

Any help is appreciated.
 

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Come on guys. Eight weeks and not a single response to help this fellow?

Someone out there knows something.

Redtruck, are you around? P7rangie?
 

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Okay I’ll take a shot at it.
If you’re confident all the work, all the fluids and all the parts used are correct.... then I would have a good look 👀 at front suspension.
Ball joints and lower control arm bushings are common faults on this platform
 

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Bleeds Green
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Please help again.

However, if I turn to either side while driving, there is stuttering, or a pulsing feeling, and it appears to be getting worse.
How much do you turn when it happens, just a little while running down the road or during a slow 90 degree turn into a parking spot? Does it happen every time? If you drive in a very slow, tight circle, does it feel like your Sport is "walking"?

My Sport had an occasional "sticky feeling" when turning from a stop before I changed the rear diff fluid. It felt like a rear end without friction modifier in it. I changed my fluids at 140k and used non LR fluids and a great friction modifier and have had no further issues.

It's possible something inside your new center diff isn't working properly since it might have sat for a while before being sold to you. Perhaps some more info about when it happens would help us diagnose it.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The problem has been fixed.
Going straight there was no problem. The stuttering/chattering/binding worsened as the turn became tighter going both forward or backward. It did not "walk". In "Low" it was even worse. No error codes were set but it had probably done too few miles since the replacement for any to be set since it had been sitting with the battery disconnected and on a charger for two weeks after driving it the mile back from the shop.
The car has new lower front control arms with polyurethane bushings and feels tight and right. At the alignment afterward, the dealership found the rest of the suspension to be OK.
The only possible solution (barring a faulty or wrong replacement) was that the shop had failed to calibrate the new transfer case correctly, so I asked them to redo it. The shop thought that the recalibration had failed a second time, but the symptoms have gone. Provided no error codes show up, I am happy and feel ready for the next road trip coming up soon.:smile
I am not too happy with the dealership, as they charged me $150 for a wrong diagnosis. I shudder at the potential outlay I would have faced for first a new differential and then for a new transfer case, had I not been skeptical :eek
The bearing noise from the transfer case must have been there and growing for a while since the car now appears quieter than before I noticed the noise.
Thank you, everyone, for your suggestions.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Problem solved

Thank you everybody for your suggestions.
I think the problem has been solved.
The tighter the turn, the more pronounced the chattering/stuttering/binding. It was equal going forward and backward. In "Low" the problem was a lot worse. Turning the steering wheel from lock to lock while stationary was smooth. No problem going straight and no "walking". Before the transfer case replacement, no noise or roughness on turns, so CVs and differentials must be good.
I just fitted new front lower control arms with polyurethane bushes, and at realignment the dealer did not find any suspension problems. The car drives tight and right.
No error codes were set, but the car had only done a handful of miles after the replacement and sat with the battery disconnected and on a charger for two weeks, as we went traveling right after picking it up from the shop. For that same reason I have to go back and have the NY inspection done when it has covered more miles.
Thus, the only possible solution would be that the shop had not programmed/recalibrated the transfer case correctly, so I asked them to do it again. They told me it did not work, but the problem has gone, and the car drives smoother and quieter than I have ever experienced, so the bearing noise must have crept up on me gradually till I finally discerned it.
The calibration/reprogramming was done with the Snap-On programming tool as seen on a YouTube video. I made sure the shop had that pricey piece of equipment before giving them the work.
Provided no error codes appear, I am happy and ready for the next road trip which is coming up soon.:smile
I am less than happy with the dealer here in Rochester NY who charged me $150 for a faulty diagnosis. Add the cost of a new transfer case to the cost of a new differential, and I shudder.
Thank you once again.
 
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