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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hello
i am a new member here, but have use this site for other land rover related things. i have found the members her very helpful in the past with fixing my rover.
my front propeller shaft U-joint seized on the freeway, it broke the shaft and then the shaft beat a 3" hole in the side of my transmission bell housing.
i started taking the tranny out today but ran into a couple problems;:dunno:
how do i get the top bolts out that connect the tranny to the motor? should i remove the front motor mounts to drop the engine and what problems should i be aware of if i do this?
should i remove the rear motor mounts to access the shifter linkage and other cables? i imagine the tranny is quite heavy and i would hate to drop it and rip all my wiring out.
any help would be greatly appreciated.
thankshttp://landroversonly.com/forums/images/smilies/dunno.gif
 

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If you remove the transfercase mounts, and lower the transmission/transfercase down slowly with a transmission or floor jack, it will make the entire process easier.

Just do not lower the transmission/transfercase too far while the remaining bell housing bolts are still in place. The coil pack will hit the firewall and crack **** up - could also break the heater core lines.

I've found it easier to re-install the transmission without the transfercase attached.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
thanks for the help. i will remove the rear mounts and put the floor jack under it tomorrow. i will post how it goes.
 

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To get to the bell housing bolts you were correct in your approach. That is, remove the rubber part of the front engine mounts and tilt the engine forward. This is as per the manual and the easiest way to get to them. Removing the rear mounts and tilting the motor and tranny backwards will only make it harder to get to the bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
ok i should remove the front mounts from the rubber and then should i remove the rear mounts and tilt motor forward? this makes sense because it is so tight behind the motor. it will take two jacks, one for the tranny and one for the motor??
thanks for all the help this is my first tranny removal.
 

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ok i should remove the front mounts from the rubber and then should i remove the rear mounts and tilt motor forward? this makes sense because it is so tight behind the motor. it will take two jacks, one for the tranny and one for the motor??
thanks for all the help this is my first tranny removal.
No. P76 is an idiot. He's never done this job so don't even listen to him. He's reading **** from a book and preaching it as Chruch. He's clueless.

You have to remove the rear mounts anyway. You do not have to remove or loosen the front mounts. The reason the "book" says to remove the engine mounts VS the t-case mounts is because by removeing the t-case mounts you run the risk of damaging the coil pack and/or heater core hard lines. But damaging these items is hard to do if you pay attention to what you're doing.

When the rear mounts are removed, you can tilt the entire transmission back. The allows you to clear the upper bolts from the firewall. It will also allow you to actualy crawl on top of the transmission (unless you're a big guy) and clearly see all the wiring, linkage, and CDL/high low shifter.

By removing the rear mounts it makes the job 100% easier.

However, you can use a 3' extention and a swivel and come over the top of the transmission to remove the upper bell housing bolts. If you have air tools this is very easy to do. Or, you can also turn the upper bolts with a wrench about a 1/4 turn at a time from the engine bay.

The biggest pain in the ass of the whole project is removing/replacing the torque converter bolts.
 

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ok i should remove the front mounts from the rubber and then should i remove the rear mounts and tilt motor forward? this makes sense because it is so tight behind the motor. it will take two jacks, one for the tranny and one for the motor??
thanks for all the help this is my first tranny removal.
You do not remove the rear mounts just yet. You just remove the rubber section of the front mounts and then let it sit on the two metal halves touching.
I have also found that finding a old spanner (I think you call them a wrench) that fits the bolts and bending it a little makes it easier to get to them.
 

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You do not remove the rear mounts just yet. You just remove the rubber section of the front mounts and then let it sit on the two metal halves touching.
I have also found that finding a old spanner (I think you call them a wrench) that fits the bolts and bending it a little makes it easier to get to them.
I'm sure that works, Ian. But why would you do this? That's just an extra step that you do not have to take to get the transmission out. You can easilly waste 20 minutes doing this step - even longer for someone doing it for the first time.

The rear mounts have to come off reguardless.

If you were pulling the motor, sure, what you say may make things easier. But that's not the case here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
thanks guys
i had to go buy a 18mm deep socket today to remove the mounts. so i did not get **** done. i will try just the rear mounts tomorrow and if i cant' get to the bolts then i will remove the front mounts.
i not using air tools, but that sure would make it easier.
i will keep all posted and report back with how it all goes.
does any one out there have a line on a used tranny??
it looks like ebay might be my best bet. i will have to shop around a little more.
thanks again
 

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Doug,

My PM thing is not working, or is slow to work... Here is my responce.

Without looking, I'm not sure how many bolts there are. 12 comes to mind.

I've never had any problem getting to the upper bolts. I just pull the two t-case mounts and lower the t-case/t-mission/engine. As long as nothing is actually hitting the fire wall, you're good. You should be able to get it low enough that you can actually crawl on top of the transmission from the back side. This makes it easy to get to the wiring, CDL, and cooler lines.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
thanks a so much for the advise!
you were right i lowered that bitch and climb right on top of her.
i left the torque converter in but will take that out before reinstall.
cheers
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
i just replace my tranny and when i went to start,nothing, my scanner gives me a bunch of codes, i checked the wiring, what is my next step.
P0705 Transmission Range Sensor Circuit (PRNDL Input)
P0743 Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid Circuit Electrical
P0753 Shift Solenoid A Electrical
P0758 Generic Shift Solenoid B Electrical
P1612 Highside switch control cannot switch on or has S/C to groun
 

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I'm currently pulling the trans out of my 2002 Disco 2. I removed the transfer case separately (I'm replacing it with one with a centre diff lock) and now I'm pulling the transmission. I got to the top bell housing bolts without removing the rear engine mounts. Had the clearance to go over the top of the engine from the left side. Now to just get to the torque converter bolts. So far, the hardest thing was that damn top nut on the starter! LoL. Managed that with long extensions and a universal joint. Went down through the branches of the intake manifold.
Any tips on the Torque Converter bolts? Do you access them through the hole where the starter was?
 
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