[HummerRescuer]

So I have 2 things that I'm just not sure what is going on. My wife was driving our 2004 Disco II and she said she gunned the accelerator and then the truck died and she coasted to a stop. It later started when I got home, and has started consistently and ran for the last 2 days. Until, I was driving today, it just died as I was driving and I had to coast into a parking lot. I waited 5 minutes and it started right up and i drove it home and parked it. It has gas, and a new battery.

The other problem is Im hearing flowing water/liquid behind the glove box. What is that? Related?

2004 Disco II, 99.5K miles Only Owner

 

[zero]

Probably not related.. unless the truck is overheating. The flowing water sound.. is air pockets in the cooling system. You may want to check the level. Only do this when the engine is stone cold. If it is low follow the proper bleeding procedure. You will have to do it a few times over a few days more than likely. I did.

As for the stalling, is the service engine soon light on? knowing the codes would help the more knowledgeable people here to help you try to figure out the issue.

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[Redrover NC]

The problem with your truck dying suddenly is almost certainly the crankshaft position sensor. There are lots and lots of posts on this another forums about it and how to replace it. And there's almost never any warning, and it does not trigger any coach that would cause the Service Engine Soon light to be eliminated.


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[zero]

I didn't realize that redrover. Any reason why it doesn't trigger the SES light?

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[redtruck12]

Yup could be fuel pump, or numerous engine electrical,issues
bUT
Cranks sensor sure sounds like it and likely will not set a code when it blanks out - just stops sending its pulse signal. Let it cool of and away you go again.
I would switch it out with a new one from your description. No fun to change due to tight access but can be done with simple hand tools
Good luck

 

[JASEcrest]

Just had mine replaced last week. I had the same problem you described.
Running like a champ now.
Additionally found that my #4 spark plug wire was not even connected, which resolved the rough idle.


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[HummerRescuer]

the SES light does come on when it dies along with the battery and oil pressure lights. I was thinking that the fuel pump may have sucked something up from the bottom of the tank? do Gumout fuel system cleaners really work?

 

[zero]

The SES light should come on when the engine curs out. What I should.have asked is.. is the SES light on before it cuts out?

Lol. I knew I worded that wrong in my original post.

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[Love-Hate Rover]

My SES didnt come on when my sensor went out, and what redtruck12 means by tight access is it's a real pain. I had to grease up my entire wrist and forearm to get between the cat pipe and frame, but with that said it is still something that could be done at home in the driveway. Good luck.

 

[Dane!]

I didn't realize that redrover. Any reason why it doesn't trigger the SES light?

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The sensor works fine when cold, at operating temps the sensor gets hot and the magnet within the sensor becomes less effective thus putting the motor out of timing and causing the engine management system to stall the engine. The SES light does not come on normally, it'll flicker sometimes as the exhaust heats the sensor then stall. When cool again the sensor is back to being good enough to not code and good enough to run until it gets to a certain temp again and stall. It happens with a lot of magnetic sensors that are near exhaust/heat.

 

[Dane!]

the SES light does come on when it dies along with the battery and oil pressure lights. I was thinking that the fuel pump may have sucked something up from the bottom of the tank? do Gumout fuel system cleaners really work?

When the truck dies the key is in the on position still, showing that your alternator isn't putting out any amps, the oil pump isn't pumping and the engine isn't running (SES), it's because it isn't doing any of it, it's not running. Change the Crank sensor, its more than likely that, its a common issue.

 

[HummerRescuer]

So the truck has been cranking and running for the pass 2 days without fail, but today i tried to crank it and it wouldn't start, so I looked under and the crank sensor is caked in oil. I jiggled it and the truck started out right away. Bad connection or is the oil on the sensor part of a greater problem causing the sensor to fail? Sorry it just never works out to be the little problem when it comes to me.

 

[HummerRescuer]

The sensor works fine when cold, at operating temps the sensor gets hot and the magnet within the sensor becomes less effective thus putting the motor out of timing and causing the engine management system to stall the engine. The SES light does not come on normally, it'll flicker sometimes as the exhaust heats the sensor then stall. When cool again the sensor is back to being good enough to not code and good enough to run until it gets to a certain temp again and stall. It happens with a lot of magnetic sensors that are near exhaust/heat.

wouldn't the shield be the problem then?

 

[helievacpilot]

C'mon man, everyones telling you it's the CkPs, and I will too. Just swap it out and be done with it. **** wears out.

 

[Dane!]

wouldn't the shield be the problem then?

No sir, it just wears. Nothing lasts forever, the sensor is probably 5+ years old and needs replacing. Go to AutoZone and buy one, the sensor is weak, but not weak enough to code, when it gets hot it becomes even less efficient than it already is and stalls the truck. Do you understand now? They are 65$.