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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I am living in Dubai and it has been hot as heck. I just bought an 81 109 with a 2.25. After about twenty min. it starts to starve out. I have fuel in all three tanks but am not sure how the switchs are suposed to work. (left -right & rear.) Any ideas? I tried moving the fuel line to the back of the enging but that didn't change anything. I get the feeling it is operator error! Maybe vapor lock?
 

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zerolatitude,
Hmm, not sure about the tank levers, but do you have fuel in the sediment bowl as she starts to cut out? Fuel in the carb bowl? Do you have that phenolic block spacer between the carb and the intake manifold?

Bogatyr
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The fuel pump on this does not have a bowl on it. I think it is a replacement. I scrounged up an original to swap out. Spacer? Not sure what you mean. It is the zenith carb. I saw a the notes about warping base plates. Would that give these indications? I sure need help with the tank switchs. So many different combinations. From the manuals you can't tell.
 

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zerolatitude,
Yeah, there was a replacement pump that was made without the bowl.

That phenolic block is a black piece of plastic that sits between the carb and the manifold, esp with the Zenith...it's use is to give a little room, hopefully to prevent vapor lock.

Yeah, wish I could help with the tank switch, hopefully someone with an MOD vehicle will chime in...

Bogatyr
 

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I think that this same thing is happening to my car as well, after i drive the car to get it to temperature , and let it sit for around 20-30 minutes, it wont start, the engine turns over but the car doesnt get any fuel, after you prime the fuel pump lots of times, and try to start the car and pump the gas pedal like crazy, after a while, the car will start. Any ideas? Bad Fuel Pump? Vapor Lock?
 

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Guys from both your descriptiond it sound as if it is a heat related problem. i.e. once the enjin reach a spesific tempriture something expands or your fuel in the carb starts boiling.

I would take start off by looking at the Black plastick spaser between the carb and maufold. This is there to espesially stop this from happening. Try to put some Gasket sealer on it to see if it stops.

Secondly: whyat Bogatyr already mentioned. look for dirt in your tank. This clogs up the exit pipe in your tank so you dont get fuel going to your pump.

Lastly: Take a look at the pumps themselfs. a recon kit is available and does not cost that much. It is also a 1 hour job to recon the pump.

Tell us what happens.
 

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zerolatitude said:
The fuel pump on this does not have a bowl on it. I think it is a replacement. I scrounged up an original to swap out. Spacer? Not sure what you mean. It is the zenith carb. I saw a the notes about warping base plates. Would that give these indications? I sure need help with the tank switchs. So many different combinations. From the manuals you can't tell.

The pump with out a bowl is a 2 1/4 diesel fuel pump same same but without the bowl many repro pumps are without bowls.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Just about got'er

Fella's, Thanks for the advise. I did pull the carb and checked the spacer. Looks good there. Before that I drained the tanks and started with clean gas.... You may not believe this but there was sand in the tanks....... Hmmmm desert...... sand....... You know there isn't much rust any where on this old truck but every piece of plastic or rubber is COOKED..... Haaaa Haaa if it aint one thing. Actually made it around the dirt pile twice! :D Now where did I put that test light?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
How about those fuel switchs?

Can anyone tell me how the manual fuel switchs are suposed to be positioned? Each tank is wired to the fuel gauge. I am guessing that each should read when in the ON position. Where ever that is!! :wave:
 

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I think the job done on your tanks is custom made!!

Rip out all the switches, taps, pumps ect. put all tanks in serie (on one line) and run that line to the enjin.

That way you will still be able to have the increased range and not have hassels about swithces and crap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Tanks

Moeras,

The tanks are L/R. I found them in the options books. I am going to pull the line to the carb then blow back through the lines. I can figure out the switchs that way. The switchs are wired to the gauge as well. That will take a bit!
 

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Your fuel tanks

Hi Zero

I dont know if this will help you any. I have a 109 with three tanks as well. However when it comes to switches, all that I have is a three way valve located at my left foot next to the clutch pedal. In the vertical postion I am using my rear tank and when moved to the left at right angles to the vertical postion I am using my left tank and 180 degrees from this point I ham using my righy tank. I then have three separate fuel guages, the rear tank to the speedo fule gauge, and the other two to a insturment cluster above the gearbox, together with an oil pressure gauge.

If you look in the engine bay, I have then one fuel pipe running to the fuel pump, almost directly opposite on the fire wall, you can see the three way valve. It works like a charm. If you need I can post a picture of it from the engine bay side and from inside the cab.

Regards

Jayce
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Switch's

Jayce,

I would love to see your set up. Mine has two two position switch's at each seat. I am slowwwwwwly getting them figured out. Man I could not believe it...... :mad: I pulled the tubes and screens on the tanks and stuck my hand down in there. Some one..... (guys I bought it from?) had put a hand full of soft string in each tank. You would get to bumping along and the string would ball up around the pick up tube. If it had been something other than a rover I would have never found the stuff. Rosted the fuel pump. Question on that.
Cheers
 
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