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And I didn't even submit a proposal...
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Guys, You remember the feeling when you think you feel a vibration, but cannot pinpoint it or even confirm that there is in fact a vibration. Nobody I took for a ride and specifically listened for it could actually feel it. So I need the opinion of the collective mind, as the Borg would say... Tires are good, just balanced a few weeks ago, and tire pressure is good. To my ear the vibration is faster than the wheels. More like the propeller shaft.

Last time the Disco was in my garage was in the spring, when I did the CDL retrofit. At the time I did a very thorough inspection of the entire drive train, and everything looked good. I greased the front and rear propeller shafts while I had them on the work bench. The front propeller shaft has about 20,000 km and it has the grease fittings on it, so I applied a liberal shot of grease in each zerk. I couldn't find how to grease the centering ball in the double joint, though. So that's my first unknown.

Second one is the rotoflex. While I had it in hand, I inspected it and it looked good, surprisingly clean, with no cracks or evident weathering. But I know for a fact it isn't recent. It was there before we bought the truck.

Last one is tonight I found a a very slight play on the front output bearing on the transfer case. I don't remember that it did that when I replaced the seal in the spring. It's so slight you can't really see it, it's more a feeling in the hand when I rock it from side to side. It's a used front output housing that I bought and it was pristine inside. I replaced the seals and gaskets, and I don't have a single drop of oil escaping from the front output seal. I searched about this and people seem to agree that if the seal is good, the bearing must not be that bad.

I may go ahead and replace the bearing and seal anyway. I have a center puller set, and it seems like it's not a problem to do it with the transfer case and front output housing in place. Also, the bearing is 39.95$ at AB, but I read on a few forums that the SKF 6207 bearing is the same, and I can get that for about 10.00$ at Canadian Bearings.

So my question is : Am I paranoid? What do you guys think?

Cheers!
George
 

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And I didn't even submit a proposal...
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202 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Well I removed the front propeller shaft today, and went for a test drive. No more vibration. The drive shaft is perfect, well greased, no play at all. So I must conclude that the culprit is in fact the front output bearing.

Strange how people on these forums say that there should be some play and that it shouldn't matter, and yet a play that is almost not perceptible produces a noticeable vibration.

Anyway I'm gonna order everything I need on Monday.
 

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Same issue here.. Such a painful task removing the t-case that I’ve just been driving it that way for the past three years. Eventually it will fail (probably at the least opportune time) but I just don't have the desire to go through that exercise again unless it's absolutely required.

i did swap out the front diff last year hoping that was the problem but that didn't fix it.
 

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And I didn't even submit a proposal...
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
So yesterday I replaced the front output bearing, and also I rebuilt the front propeller shaft. I did not take enough photos to make a proper DIY, but it's pretty basic. You just need the right tools.



First pic shows the front output shaft, once I removed the front output flange. To remove the flange, you need a 30mm socket and an impact wrench. When I replaced the front output housing last year, I replaced the seal but did not change the bearing at the time. But since it was on the bench, I needed something to prevent the flange from turning while removing the nut, so I made my own LRT-51-003 tool. (second pic) A simple flatbar with holes in the right places. I used it yesterday to remove the flange so as to protect the gears from the impact wrench. The area around the front output housing has to be clean, so not foreign objects contaminate the new bearing, seal, and shaft.



Then you need to remove the old seal using a long flat head screwdriver, (that's when you realise that oil seals are there for a reason, after some oil has poured on your face and on your shirt, but that's not a problem since gear oil smells so good...) then remove the little felt washer, and the retaining ring. You need special pliers for that snap ring. Once that's done, you put back the flange and nut but only loosely as long as all the threads are engaged, and use a slide hammer and a puller to pull on the shaft and bearing.



With the shaft and bearing on the bench, use the puller to remove the bearing from the shaft.



To install the new bearing on the shaft, and the shaft and bearing assembly into the housing, use the old bearing to protect the new one and tap gently, being careful to keep the bearing perfectly in line. Then to install the new seal, use the old seal in the same way.

That's it. Don't forget to top off the oil in the transfer case to replace toe oil that's in your hair and on your shirt. I work slowly and double check everything in the Rave before doing it, and it took about 3 hours from the time I jacked the truck to the road test. (not counting the propeller shart rebuild). But having the right tools in this case is essential if you don't want to break anything.

The vibration is gone, and there's still a play in the new bearing, but it's very hard to feel it.
 

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Thanks very much for the pics George - always feels better when you can see it done!
a quick question - which bearing did you get? I looked for a SKF 6207 but they come in a multitude of versions with and without seals i.e. 6207J or zz or zjz etc etc. I couldn't see a straight 6207 and I don't know if that is the correct version? I assume it would be the open version M6207.
thanks
Barri
 

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And I didn't even submit a proposal...
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks very much for the pics George - always feels better when you can see it done!
a quick question - which bearing did you get? I looked for a SKF 6207 but they come in a multitude of versions with and without seals i.e. 6207J or zz or zjz etc etc. I couldn't see a straight 6207 and I don't know if that is the correct version? I assume it would be the open version M6207.
thanks
Barri
Well I ended up ordering the bearing from Atlantic British. I did not have time to hunt down the right configuration. The one I got from AB is # STC1130 and the seal is # FTC4939.

Good luck!
George
 

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