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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Waterfall syndrome... I have done as much as I could to solve the inside waterfall noise, probably one of the most irritating issues that these D2 have. I have read many forums and tried each solution. I have followed the Bleed instructions in RAVE manual and attempt to get the air out multiple times. Using a pressure tool I pumped 18 PSI into late at night and listed and watch for any obvious signs of a leak. I sprayed each hose connection with soap and water to see if bubbles would appear. I double check each connection for a leak and tighten any fitting that seemed loose. I have check the connections on the throttle body, no luck. Radiator hose, water pump, timing gear..no luck.There are no signs of coolant in oil, the exhaust gas is not pressurizing in the expansion tank and no smoke is being blown out of the muffler,only small drops of water. Right now after I refill, and rebleed, I let it run with the heater on high. The I take it for a spin and I still hear the water and when I park it I see the coolant in tank being expelled thru the overflow hose ( granted I over -filled it so I think its just trying to get rid of the access and leveloff)...but once I turn the Engine off I hear noises coming from the expansion tank...sounding like air in a balloon is being let out...as it continues the tank beings to fill again.....not sure if this is normal. However the only place I have not check is the heater matrix...but that is a nasty long job....and I have read some people doing it and still not solving the problem. My floors are dry and Don't see any puddle under the passenger seat. I recent used Air Lift vacuum...first creating a vacuum at 26 psi which held for more then the recommended 20 sec,..so i know its air tight no leaks, then i loaed it with coolant with vacuum and still hear the sloshing:eek:....So I don't know where else, or what else to do...SO I call on the Land Rover Forum GODS to Chime in and point me to the next step. This is the only piece that is preventing me from putting her back on the Road...Need your advice please!***
 

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'03 Disco SE
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Just some constructive criticism - use proper punctuation and organize your thoughts a little better as it was pretty hard to follow your post. Also provide some info about which vehicle you have including the year, mileage, and work done to it.

From what I gather:

1. You followed the appropriate bleed procedures, yet still get the water noise.
2. You did a pressure test and found no faults.
3. After the engine is at operating temp, coolant begins to overflow from the tank.
4. After the engine is off you hear hissing from the expansion tank.

To begin with, there should be no coolant overflowing from the tank and you should not hear any hissing noise from it when the vehicle is off. I believe this may point you to your problem.

Have you replaced your expansion tank cap to ensure that it isn't faulty? It sounds to me that after the engine heats up, the cap loses some of it's sealing ability and begins to release pressure. This is the cause of the coolant overflow and the hissing noise you hear. Maybe it only does it when it is hot, which is why your pressure test was successful.

With no pressure, the boiling point of the coolant in the system is lower and it will begin to boil at certain hot spots in the block and head, introducing air bubbles into your cooling system. These bubbles displaced the coolant that you see escaping through your expansion tank and they're the reason why you get the waterfall noise.

Basically, replace your cap, bleed the system (use 50/50 GREEN coolant), and I think the problem should be resolved.

If this does not resolve it, then you likely have an internal leak caused by a head gasket, slipped liner, or cracked block. It may not manifest itself as exhaust steam or murky coolant, but it could still be there. Have a hydrocarbon test done on your coolant to check for evidence of exhaust gases in it.

Good luck - you're looking at either a cheap expansion tank cap or an expensive rebuild. Let's hope its the first one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi Bos - sorry about that. I wrote my post after spending an entire day troubleshooting. My vehicle - 2000 Disco 2 with 160K. I just finished rebuilding the engine from the block up. I started with replacing the head gaskets but as I got deeper into the rebuild I replacing worn items such as the cam shaft, time gears, oil pump...etc. Once I got her back together she ran great until I started hearing the water. I performed a hydrocarbon but it came back negative. NOTE: it was this test that confirmed I had a blown head gasket and convinced me to go with a rebuild. This morning I attempted to bleed the vehicle again and at first I thought I had solve the problem...no sound! I was very excited!... I rode her for about 10 minutes...then it was back. I parked the vehicle for 5 hours, and followed the same bleed process. Same result. Tells me something starts to leak when she gets hotter. After I parked her, I heard that hissing sound from the cap. Although I could not see where the on the cap the sound was originating from it was definitely the cap. I also notice that the 2 O – rings on the cap look rather skinny. I will try replacing the cap to see if I can get a tight seal.
Thank you for your reply!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Repeated the procedure with the tank elevated. With the cap off, I let the engine idle with heater at full, and watch the bubbles come into the tank. As the engine would idle the coolant level would rise up an down and sometimes spill over and drain out of the overflow hose. another thing i notice is even with the heater at full the air that is coming out is really not hot. I keep at this till the engine at normal temp and wait till there is steady flow of coolant without bubbles. I replace the cap and take the truck out for a spin. For the first few minutes the truck sounds great, no sloshing. But as I drive longer i notice that air out of the heater starts to get warmer and this is when i start to hear the noise again. I turn the heater off and 'bam' there it is again. I parked it and notice the coolant is more then half way down. I also notice a hissing sound around the radiator cap. I let it sit till cold and the coolant is still more the half way down. so there u have it..play by play.

Keep in mind... I have done the hydrocarbon test, I have pressure tested and vacuum tested it, the headgasket are new and there is no water in the oil. please let me know if you guys have further thoughts.
 

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disco biscuit
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I changed a water pump on a chevy once and the rtv I generously applied bled through to the small over flow tube leading into the expansion tank. Are you sure all radiator, water pump, thermostat, head gasket...known leaks are addressed.

Also I think I heard expansion tank cap. I always say first off...1 psi loss in the coolant system reduces the boiling temperature point 10° in the system. The water and antifreeze boil ten degrees sooner with one psi less generally. Speaking of is your coolant in the radiator mixed 50\50? Water has a lower boiling point than 50/50 mix....

There's a million things that could be asked of you you should be 100% sure any of those things aren't wrong....to make it easier on me. Have you went with the lower degree thermostat? Have you changed every single thing to do with the coolant...it is the cause of almost all problems with any aluminum engine ever produced.
 

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Sounds like you need a new radiator cap for a start. The best way to bleed the system is with the cap on. That is, let the motor get to normal running temp and pressure in the cooling system will built up. Shut off the motor and undo the radiator cap (careful not to burn yourself with any coolant that might spurt out). The sudden release of pressure will usually dislodge any air trapped in the system. You amy need to do it a couple of times to get all the air out.

There are no guarantees on getting rid of the sloshing noise in a D2. It might be something that you are just going to have to live with.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Biscuit,

I plan to change the cap but to let you know, just finshed a rebuild on this truck where the head gaskets, cam shaft, lifters, valves, oil pump, timing gear, water pump, radiator, hoses..etc. I did a pressure test and it held at 18. in addition I used an Airlift vacuum tool to pull all air out and it held the vacuum for for then 10 minutes...so i believe its air tight...but at rest without being turned on and warmed up. I'm thinking as the truck gets warm abd heat causes expansion something is opening. the only place i have not looked is the heater matrix...but in reading up on that it is long labor intensive job that has not produced consistent results. I truly hope its the cap and this leak is the only thing that is preventing from putting it on the road
 

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This worked for me:

"Some owners have complained that swapping the hoses can cause this problem.

Most likely, air was allowed in and that's why you're hearing the coolant slosh around.

Make sure your coolant level is topped up. With the engine cold, fill the reservoir to the top. Start the engine with the reservoir cap off and let the engine warm up. At the same time, turn your heater to the highest heat level and max fan.

Run the engine with an idle speed of about 1500 to 2000 RPMS JUST for a minute or so. Doing this will cause the engine to draw in the needed coolant from the reservoir.

This should fix your water noise problem."
 

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Why do people keep on saying this?
Turning the heater on or off, high or low, does not change the coolant flow through the heater core at all.
If anything, doing this at idle can prevent the motor from warming up as the heater core acts as a mini radiator.
Aquizon - I have had three D2's, two 1999's and one 2001. I had the water sloshing on at least two, maybe all three and it worked. P7 is entitled to his opinion but I speak from experience.

Then again you may have a different problem - but never believe that you have to live with it; it can be fixed. (This last sentence is however opinion.)
 

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Aquizon - I have had three D2's, two 1999's and one 2001. I had the water sloshing on at least two, maybe all three and it worked. P7 is entitled to his opinion but I speak from experience.

Then again you may have a different problem - but never believe that you have to live with it; it can be fixed. (This last sentence is however opinion.)
You mean that something you did got rid of the noise.
As I have stated, there is no flow control of coolant through a heater core on a D2, D1, Range Rover Classic, etc, etc.
Coolant is running through the core all the time.
The heat in the car is controlled by the amount of air that the system allows to travel over this core and not the amount of coolant allowed through it.
Therefore the only affect that having the heater on full can have is to cool the coolant going through the heater core and therefore cool the coolant overall in the motor.
 

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disco biscuit
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I follow p76's logic. He's saying once the thermostat opens water should circulate through the entire system. And it does. I think to add to it a little. The condensed coils the water flows through will aid the flow to itself once cooler temps are observed there. The flow in and out may actually be regulated by design. In other words piped to flow less water when not in use. An air conditioner observes some of the same principles. Whether any of this is designed into the land rover I don't really care. I guess the point would be these principals lead me to the opinion the fan on could definitely result in different flow and even more affect the air inside the line... If it works for someone how can it be argued even if only to say hey this crap might fix it.
 

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Firstly, the heater operates whether or not the thermostat is open. On a cold day with the heater running you can find that the engine will not reach a temperature where the thermostat will open. This is because the cold air going through the heater core and around the engine bay keeps the engine below the thermostat opening temperature.
Below are the relevant pages from the RAVE CD and may help you understand how the cooling system works.
 

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It is hard to argue with logic. However it worked for me; I made no other attempt at repair - just followed the instructions. The instructions were not mine by the way; so it is obvious that others have used it before me and posted the results.
 

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It is hard to argue with logic. However it worked for me; I made no other attempt at repair - just followed the instructions. The instructions were not mine by the way; so it is obvious that others have used it before me and posted the results.
I am glad it worked for you. You will find it a relatively common problem and there are many posts on the internet about it. Unfortunately there appears to be no common cure. For most people it goes away by doing various things to try and get the air out of the system. My comments were never meant to say that trying various methods are not worth a try, It was only ever about having the heater on full to get coolant through it.

One friend of mine would have to be in the top couple of Land Rover mechanics in our country. He comes across this issue on a regular basis and has stated that about 1 in 10 he can not get rid of it. Unfortunately another of my friends was in that one in ten group and nothing he tried got rid of it.
 
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