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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was given 5 new Cooper stt pros from a buddy of mine that is a rep of sorts for them. They measure 32.28x10.9 according to their website. I'm stock and at 80k need new suspension anyway. Cost isn't an issue as none of these lifts are very expensive. Just not sure if I need 2 or 3 inches. Most seem to think OME is best. What all besides the lift and brake lines do I need to have installed? I don't rock crawl but we have a lot of hilly terrain and a good bit of mud and water passes.

Also I see very very few of these lifted with the stock running boards still on. Actually I'm not sure that I see any. I like mine. Will the tires fit with the running boards still on? None of the trails I go on are particularly rocky or have areas where I ever even at stock height come up on clearance issues really. Think it'd be a waste to take off my running boards and put on rock sliders when I don't encounter that sort of thing. Lift is mainly to aid in angles and water passes plus free tires and worn out suspension so why not

I have the ARB bull bar and a winch in the front. No other extra weight anywhere else. Have heard I need HD since the bull bar/winch are quite heavy. With my worn out suspension my front driver side stock sized tire currently rubs at times.

I see all sorts of things some people add to lifts but I only want what is necessary. If I need it I'm completely fine adding it on but since I do the work myself I don't care for needless projects.

I'm very grateful for any help and will upload completed pics and help with this question and my experiences in the future after I have experience with the set up.
 

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I can't help you with advice for the lift cos i'm against everything which exceeds +5% from standard for good reasons as if you use your car as a daily driver especially on slippery grounds you can become a danger for yourself and others with such huge tyres, the D2's ABS system was not conceived for that, if you have ACE that will be mixed up as well, if you are interested here's the whole story 255/65 or 255/70 Pros and Cons?
 

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Stock is 255/55/18(29") which is 10.5% overall difference from 275/65/18(32"), i've had 265/70/16(30.5") on mine for test and they are rubbing against the wheelarch on steering full lock without any mods... i doubt that 34" without a serious lift will not rub even on smaller bumps...the fact that 34" tyres are popular there doesnt mean that the braking distance with those tyres is not increased with at least 3 meters compared to the same car with stock tyres... as i said i made live lests with my own car and got almost 2 meters diference with 5.4% bigger tyres... also for that kind of tyres HD transmission elements are required at least cv joints but the wear in the transfer box will be considerably increased as well... i just wanted to shear some live experience corroborated with deep study of the ABS system and serious calculations made using the WABCO formulas... just as a warning
 

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i just wanted to shear some live experience corroborated with deep study of the ABS system and serious calculations made using the WABCO formulas... just as a warning
only one live example: with my car standard 255/65/16 Dunlop Grandtrek AT3 tyres and 265/70/16 BFG T/A KO2 so only 5.4% difference on the same muddy(but solid) ground from same speed(40km/h) the halt distance was increased with close to 2 meters
I'm scared.
......
 

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I run that exact tire on my 2002 with factory side steps.
I did a 2 inch lift with plus 2 Terrafirma components. Very slight - light rub at / near steering lock on the side stem mud flap.
Drives great no noticable issues. No where remotely close to the wheel arch, I would consider that a non issue.
It seems to be a common opinion that anything more than 2" can put added stress on the driveshafts both front and rear so an updated greasable shaft is as always a good plan. Most say that 3 inches is too much and will require replacement pan hard bars to correct the alignment.
I am very happy with the quality of the stuff from Terrafirma. Plan on shocks, you will likely find the bushings are worn out when it comes apart. I did 4 shocks and a steering stabilizer. Handles very well on and off road.
Some bookworms and data geeks may say don't do it but if you are looking from experience from the real worldit will be fine. Will work well and look like a different truck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I run that exact tire on my 2002 with factory side steps.
I did a 2 inch lift with plus 2 Terrafirma components. Very slight - light rub at / near steering lock on the side stem mud flap.
Drives great no noticable issues. No where remotely close to the wheel arch, I would consider that a non issue.
It seems to be a common opinion that anything more than 2" can put added stress on the driveshafts both front and rear so an updated greasable shaft is as always a good plan. Most say that 3 inches is too much and will require replacement pan hard bars to correct the alignment.
I am very happy with the quality of the stuff from Terrafirma. Plan on shocks, you will likely find the bushings are worn out when it comes apart. I did 4 shocks and a steering stabilizer. Handles very well on and off road.
Some bookworms and data geeks may say don't do it but if you are looking from experience from the real worldit will be fine. Will work well and look like a different truck.
Thanks. I already have a greasable Tom Woods front shaft. Might need to upgrade the rear shaft as well. Going to replace all four wheel bearing hubs and pads/rotors when I send it in for the lift as my front right hub has a slight squeal ever since I hit a curb a few weeks ago and brakes haven't been done in as long as I remember. 2 inch lift sounds like a plan. Shorter I can keep it the better as I live downtown and park in a parking garage.

Not sure why the other guy went in with the lecture but I have less than a 2 mile commute to work and the discovery is one of three cars so it doesn't see a lot of on the road driving. It's more of a toy. I don't remember the last time in any vehicle I've had to slam on brakes so 3 meters extra or whatever it happens to be of stopping distance is of no concern. It's a land rover I'm not speeding around town.
 

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Parking garage ...... Not me. Not even close. Tires and lift will put you up about 4 1/2 inches from where you are stock. I also have a full rack on mine and I don't even check parking garages. Just not happening with my truck
I have heard that you can go pretty big on tire without any lift. I am supprised but not shocked that 34s will fit.
If you are currently stock original there is likley some sag and the addition of the front bumper and bar the front is likely even lower.
I would stick with the 2" plan.
I had to order online and ship my terrafirma stuff to Canada and found that although not cheap by any means, it was substantially less than o.m.e.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
our parking garage is super tall compared to most parking garages. I say I don't want to go too high due to it but I'm not sure any mods could put me too high for the first floor. We have plenty of street parking always open but I don't like to leave mine out in the elements. Guy in my building always parks his brand new range outside on the street which baffles me when we have a free parking garage with security built into the side of our building with an elevator from it into our building.

Love the look of those on 34's above (think they both have the arb bumper like I have). I was looking at going to a true 33 until I was offered these tires but .7 inches is negligible. Seeing the same size on a DII elsewhere they look pretty dang good.
 

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our parking garage is super tall compared to most parking garages. I say I don't want to go too high due to it but I'm not sure any mods could put me too high for the first floor. We have plenty of street parking always open but I don't like to leave mine out in the elements. Guy in my building always parks his brand new range outside on the street which baffles me when we have a free parking garage with security built into the side of our building with an elevator from it into our building.

Love the look of those on 34's above (think they both have the arb bumper like I have). I was looking at going to a true 33 until I was offered these tires but .7 inches is negligible. Seeing the same size on a DII elsewhere they look pretty dang good.
With the bumper and winch, I would go with the OME HD. Probably will net you between 2-3 in. Should be able to run those tires with no problem.
Something to keep in mind also, is the actual mounted diameter. A LOT of tires come out less (some quite a bit), of advertised specs.
Also, sierrafery is mis-informed on a few things. ABS and ACE WILL work, no problems. I'm running 255/85 KM2's, and ABS works fine, on and off road.
Next, trans and T/C don't give a crap what tire size your running. A few things that might be affected are braking distance, gearing (obviously), diffs, axles, and cv's. Go easy on the skinny pedal, and you should be OK. If anything DOES break, it's a good excuse to up-grade.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I know all about tires not being as big as they're listed on the sidewall. Measured size in these inflated and installed though was measured in at 32.23 or something like that. That's plenty big enough for me. If I could go narrower than the 10.9 inches I would but that isn't too wide.

I still am afraid I'm going to have to remove my factory side steps which I hate doing. I have yet to find a decent pic of a lifted discovery with the factory side steps still on. I know a lot of that is for the guys needing all the clearance and rock protection they can get but I don't really encounter rocks and I like the steps. Most of the girls I take out need the step already they definitely will if it's up another 6 or 8 inches.

In 3 months I'll have a minimum of another 10-15 grand into this damn thing. I'm going to keep it forever but have to finish it off before I purchase another fast car. Have to redo headliner, lift tires install, body work, new shifter boots, pads/rotors, tophats, etc.
 

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I know all about tires not being as big as they're listed on the sidewall. Measured size in these inflated and installed though was measured in at 32.23 or something like that. That's plenty big enough for me. If I could go narrower than the 10.9 inches I would but that isn't too wide.

I still am afraid I'm going to have to remove my factory side steps which I hate doing. I have yet to find a decent pic of a lifted discovery with the factory side steps still on. I know a lot of that is for the guys needing all the clearance and rock protection they can get but I don't really encounter rocks and I like the steps. Most of the girls I take out need the step already they definitely will if it's up another 6 or 8 inches.

In 3 months I'll have a minimum of another 10-15 grand into this damn thing. I'm going to keep it forever but have to finish it off before I purchase another fast car. Have to redo headliner, lift tires install, body work, new shifter boots, pads/rotors, tophats, etc.
10-15 grand!? What the hell have you bought for that thing? Sounds like your more concerned about picking up your "girls" than doing the truck right. Sell the tires or get some taller girlfriends.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
A couple of shots of d2's with 34's. No big lifts, etc.
10-15 grand!? What the hell have you bought for that thing? Sounds like your more concerned about picking up your "girls" than doing the truck right. Sell the tires or get some taller girlfriends.
It isn't all what have I bought. Having the tophatted liners put in and a good bit of other engine work to at least attempt to ensure reliability. Doing a whole lot to it though. Headliner, passenger front window regulator, small roof leak needs fixed while headliner is pulled, lift and installation, some rear corner bodywork/paint, wheel arches painted, rear bumper, among quite a few other things. It'll probably end up being more than 15. We all know these trucks aren't too cheap to work on. Living dt and not having a garage of my own I can only do the quick and easy things myself.

I'm worried about getting it right not about picking up women as that isn't an issue I just pointed that out as to part of the reason why I want to keep the side steps. They have trouble getting in before it gets raised 6 or 8 inches so I'd prefer to keep the steps. If I have to get rid of them I'll have to buy some sliders so hopefully they can stay.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
and trust me I'm going to get the truck right. I care much more about that than someone else being able to ride in it. I have two other cars if someone doesn't want to ride in it. I've put this one on hold because I'm always building up either a car or a bike and other than the window regulator and small leak the discovery has been fine. Only thing I miss about a garage. I restored a 64 chevy truck doing almost all of the work by myself (little help from my dad). Even cut the wood and made the metal strips for the bed of the truck using cedar from the closet lining of an old home in the family. I'd do everything to this save for the top hatting myself if I had the garage or the time right now to do it. The regular maintenance I do mostly myself on the roof of the parking garage. I'm using a truck/jeep store about a half mile away that does lifts all day every day to do the lift. I'm sure they'll be able to help me get it right.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Only way your going to know for sure is to lift it, throw on the tires and see what rubs.
If these rub the side steps I'm going to sell them and go ahead and throw on a legit 33 or slightly larger and just get sliders with nerf bar step attached.

Anyone know if I need to go ahead and swap out my rear shaft? Front shaft was swapped out for the highest grade tom woods when I purchased the truck. They told me at least I should be able to lift it quite a bit and the shaft still be fine but I have the stock rear still on.
 

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If these rub the side steps I'm going to sell them and go ahead and throw on a legit 33 or slightly larger and just get sliders with nerf bar step attached.

Anyone know if I need to go ahead and swap out my rear shaft? Front shaft was swapped out for the highest grade tom woods when I purchased the truck. They told me at least I should be able to lift it quite a bit and the shaft still be fine but I have the stock rear still on.
Up to about a 3in. lift, stock driveshafts will be fine. After that, not so much. Lots of expensive things required to accomodate a >3in. lift on a D2. Cranked arms, longer drive-shafts, extended brake/abs lines, watts, drag link, etc...
Also, larger tires also equals lots of mods unless it's just a mall-crawler. Diffs, gears, axles, cv's etc....
Doesn't sound like you do any crazy off-roading, so stick with the tires, get the OME HD lift and call it a day.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Doesn't sound like you do any crazy off-roading, so stick with the tires, get the OME HD lift and call it a day.
Big part of what I'm building this for is to take it out west a good bit and do some off roading and camping. Still not going to be doing anything too extreme as to me going slow as all out hell and constantly having to figure out lines and use help is not all that fun (mostly why I'm not the biggest fan of playing on the rocks in an SUV). My dad retires next month and I get 8 weeks of vacation a year so we're going to get in a good bit of traveling. I don't care for any extreme lifts so I'm not going over 3" and am pretty sure I'm going to stick to 2".

People are liking these coopers in the snow and we are in the mountains a lot in the winter.

I have a side by side I beat the crap out of on the rocks and it's pretty fun because it's much easier to see everything you're going over and you don't really need a spot. We have a place about an hour away that's great to ride at. Plus it's a little easier on the wallet messing something up on it which I've somehow yet to do (dang thing is tough).
 
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