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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm having a weird issue. I developed a cold start issue, and bought a new temp sensor and a new sensor for the gauge. I just put them both in. Before replacing, the temp usually ran in the 1/4 range. Now with the new sensor, after idling for about 10-20 minutes, this is where it is at. and it seems to go there, and stay steady there each time i try it. and teh upper radiator hose was just starting to get a little warm. Is there a special formula to bleeding the coolant system? I basically just filled the reservoir up to the sensor metal piece, with the top plug off the radiator to allow air to come out. After running it a few times i took the plug out and let any more air out and made sure the coolant was topped off.

Is this too high? This is an 89 range rover.. Let me know what you think.

EFI light has been on the last week or so too. :/

p.s. sorry for the poor pic.. camera phone.
 

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I usually bleed my coolant system by removing the cap on top of the coolant pipe that runs above the intake plenum. Remove the plug and start it from cold. You should hear some air escaping as the bubbles rise to the highest point in the cooling system and then escape out the hole. As long as the engine is cold there shouldn't be any coolant escaping. Replace the cap and then check your coolant level in the tank again. If you remove the cap on the expansion tank while the top cap is off then all the coolant that is up high will flow back, drawing air back into the system in the process.
 

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yieldsign2 said:
Is this too high? This is an 89 range rover.. Let me know what you think.
Just had a new thermostat put in my 92, it reads about 1/3 of the way on the gauge in the cold but the heater is blistering hot now.
It was stuck open and I had the rad opening blocked off before that because it wouldn't even show on the gauge.
 

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yieldsign2 said:
Hmm, this is no good then, i think?

To change the thermostat, do you have to take the waterpump off? it kinda looked like it in the picture on rovers north

No you don't need to take off the water pump to replace the t-stat! Follow the top radiator hose to the motor... the t-stat is in that little metal housing that comes off the intake manifold on top of the motor. Two bolts hold it on, it's easy to get off but a bit of a pain to get a new one on. Just use a little sealant to hold the thermostat in place and make sure the jiggle pin is on top. LR recommends just using a new gasket but I also use some gasket sealer just to make sure there are no leaks and to hold the gasket in place. Torque for the two bolts on the t-stat housing to the intake manifold is 18-22 lb ft.
 

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My guage runs right in the middle. But don't worry. It's not a precision instrument. As long as it goes there and stays there.
I was worried about that too but mine goes there and stays there so I'm okay with that.
 

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Mine runs just a tad below the midpoint in all conditions. It used to be at 1/2, but would climb to the red when going up steep mountains. A new radiator cured all that :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
well , the only place that had the thermostat was NAPA, and i got it and was going to try formagasket since nowhere had a gasket for it. Was a valiant try, but it does leak. I'm ordering the thermostat from rovers north because I don't trust this one anyway.

Anyone have any ideas as to the purpose, and importance of hte bleed valve on the thermostat? The one i took out has it, and rangerovers.net says to put the bleed valve to the top, but the replacement i got has NO bleed valve.

When i ran it again, it went up to above where my picture in this thread, then when the tstat opened (upper radiator hose started getting warm) it dropped down to half on the temp gauge. I don't trust this thermostat.

Until wednesday,,, ,thanks!
 
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