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Ok. Here is the deal. I've always loved the RR classic. I've owned a 99 disco II, but I'd love to get a classic. I'm not gonna be doing any serious off reading with it nor will I be towing anything heavier than a few dirt bikes. What is the best model to look for in terms of reliability. Thanks guys!
:)
 

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id say that is a personal choice... and a bit of luck....i like the 3.9 motor and if i was to get another..id want a 93.. i like the classic dash...
 

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You should look at an early two door, carb 3.5l V8.

If I could have any (available) RRC in the world it would be a CSK for sure.
 

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if you can't find a pre-injector one, try to get a short wheel base 91-95 (so that it has the accessible fuel pump) without air suspension. I've had ABS problems on both of the RR Ive owned though, oh and if you do get one immediately relocate the amplifier module if it hasn't already been (you dont need a kit to do it)
 

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91 Hunter edition, no abs no sunroof and manual seats
 

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which rover?

greetings,

Find a 1987-1990!
I have had nothing but love for my 1988rrc w/difflock. No abs and low maintenance over 300k miles. Maybe im just lucky with this 88rrc, my 2011 RR tends to lock me out of the cab automatically for some reason!!!! Takes the LR Dealer to come let me in!!!!

thanks

johniv
 

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Classic

If you are looking at any soft dash models; unless it comes from sunny states be very aware that they rust very badly everywhere.

Bulkhead, rear crossmember, inner rear wings, rear floor. In the UK classics that were made after 1993 suffer horrendous rust problems. They look great on the outside until you start poking about. Be careful.
 

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My advice on buying a Range Rover, buy the one that is in the best overall shape. Don't get hung up on a particular year. Become as familiar as possible with all the typical issues (RUST included) and look at as many as you can. Take your time and as you look at and drive the various Range Rovers that were imported to the US over the roughly nine years they were sold here, you'll be able to figure out on your own which model suits you best.
 

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"I'm looking for the most reliable option. Not really a fan of electronic gizmos. I just love the look of the RR classic!"

Very little difference between an '87 and a '94 at this point. Heated seats (doubt many still work), exposed hinges, fuel pump access, sunroof, EAS (most have been swapped). Probably the single biggest thing to consider a latter model for it the engine and the engine management system. There's no contest between a 3.5L 13CU engine management system vs. a 14CUX 3.9L or 4.2L.

"Then with the less electronics and the best built ones are 87-91 try to get one with diff lock. With a 3.9 engine..."

'87 and '88 had the 3.5 with the 13CU engine management system. Not really the best for durability and at this point almost impossible to find replacement parts for. The 1989 was a one off year with the 14CU management system. Lacking in the display reader, it was a far superior system when compared to the 13CU. The 3.9L without ABS makes the '89 a nice choice but unless someone has ditched the Borg Warner transfer case, there's no manual locking of the center diff on any 3.9L or 4.2L Classics.

"You should look at an early two door, carb 3.5l V8. "

I won't argue here. My favorite Range Rover was a carburetted four door from '85. I traveled all over with that truck and, to this day, remains my favorite Rover. Unfortunately, time and rust won and I could no longer keep the truck roadworthy. Finding a two door or any grey market Range Rover at least 30 years down the pike is going to be incredibly hard and expensive. Money that might better be spent finding a quality '87-'95 model with better parts availablity.

"91 Hunter edition, no abs no sunroof and manual seats"

Another excellent choice. Part of the reason I loved my '85 as much as I did was that I never had to worry about power seats failing or a sunroof leaking. The only problem with a Hunter is finding a good one. They are as rare as hen's teeth.

"Find a 1987-1990!
I have had nothing but love for my 1988rrc w/difflock. No abs and low maintenance over 300k miles. "

In the US the last year for non ABS was '89. As I mentioned above, '89 was also the first year for the Borg Warner, no manual diff lock. I can't disagree with you about the quality of these early NAS Range Rovers. My issue is that because of their age and the very limited numbers sold (in '87 I think they sold about 1,500 in the US) there just aren't many to choose from.

"If you are looking at any soft dash models; unless it comes from sunny states be very aware that they rust very badly everywhere.

Bulkhead, rear crossmember, inner rear wings, rear floor. In the UK classics that were made after 1993 suffer horrendous rust problems. They look great on the outside until you start poking about. Be careful."

While this is valuable advise, I don't think it can be limited to just the last few years of the Range Rover. I have disassembled 100 or more over the years and can tell you as a fact, that rust has no favorite year. Even my '85, with just over 130K miles had to have the sills and the rear body crossmember replaced. I did the floors and the inner fenders up front. By the time I finally threw in the towel there was little that I hadn't replaced over the almost 10 years I had that truck.

Rust is probably the biggest issue with these trucks hands down. You can rebuild an engine, pick up good interior bits, repaint, do countless things to improve an otherwise rough truck but if it's swiss cheese thanks to rust, run away!!!

Like I said above, find the truck that is in the best overall shape you can afford. Good ones are getting harder and harder to find. People are really starting to get into the act of restoring these trucks so prices are going up accordingly.
 
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