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Discussion Starter #21
You are correct; the info was for a P38 and I assumed it worked for a DII.

My wife has the fob so I had to use my old non battery key; used that key to lock and unlock a couple of times. For some reason it would not turn over after installing (properly) the new battery but did so after locking and unlocking 2X with the non battery key. All is good now.
 

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You are correct; the info was for a P38 and I assumed it worked for a DII.

My wife has the fob so I had to use my old non battery key; used that key to lock and unlock a couple of times. For some reason it would not turn over after installing (properly) the new battery but did so after locking and unlocking 2X with the non battery key. All is good now.
It means that your alarm is set to 'always disarm with key' mode and the passive immobiliser disabled. Unlock commad would have been enough with the key then
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Ok, good to know.

I am surprised that no one seemed to notice the Sears battery lasted twelve years. Never heard anything like that before.
 

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Glad you’re done with it
And yes that’s a good long life for any battery 👍
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Rats. Went out to start the DII and no interior light showing. As if battery is disconnected. I reset and tightened the cables on the positive and negative poles and hooked up jumper cables. With the Mercedes hooked up and running the DII started lighting up inside. But no joy. The starter would not engage. So going to remove the three month old battery and take it back to Pep Boys for a look-see but bet it is fully charged.

If so, what advice does anyone have. Could my jumper cables really be too skinny to jump the DII?
 

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my D2 is very fussy. I have three sets of cables and only one will jump it.

note to self: if they're $8 at chevron, they're garbage.
 
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Discussion Starter #29
Reread my old posts and saw the comment about locking/unlocking twice; it worked the last time after I installed the new battery (three months ago). But did not work this time. Funny. It is as if the battery is disconnected. No headlight, no interior light. It seems that even with a very low battery the headlights should come on. Not today. Going to hook up the jumpers again and have wife hold the Mercedes at high rpm and see if it will jump. Maybe there was just not enough juice going through the cables at idle speed yesterday. Wish me luck.
 

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That battery is completely dead so better not try to jump it cos it can have short between cells and it will ruin the donor's alternator. Send it back if it's in warranty and ask for other modell cos it seems that this one is sh*t or you have some major parasitic drain which can be caused by faulty alternator so that's why your battery died. Read the owner's handbook about the emergency starting procedure and warnings cos if you dont comply exactly you can ruin the BCU or IDM, happened to others
 

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Discussion Starter #31
That battery is completely dead so better not try to jump it cos it can have short between cells and it will ruin the donor's alternator. Send it back if it's in warranty and ask for other modell cos it seems that this one is sh*t or you have some major parasitic drain which can be caused by faulty alternator so that's why your battery died. Read the owner's handbook about the emergency starting procedure and warnings cos if you dont comply exactly you can ruin the BCU or IDM, happened to others
\\

Yep, it was the battery. Took it to Pep Boys and it checked out dead. They gave me a new one as the other one lasted three months. Installed and all is good. Agree - I will pull out my paper manual and read the emergency starting procedure anew.

I love this Land Rover - today.
 

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OK, did you check te charging? cos if it's something wrong with the alternator this battery might be dead in no time as well
 

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Discussion Starter #33 (Edited)
Correcto. My OBDII reader reports that; will take a look. Seems like it supposed to be charging at 13.5 or 14.5 or close to that? Maybe I should do it with the AC running to put a load on it?

It has:

vehicle speed
engine speed
water temperature
battery voltage
instantaneous fuel consumption
average fuel consumption
mileage measurement
shift reminding
fatigue driving reminding
low voltage alarm
high temperature alarm
speed alarm
engine fault alarm
fault code elimination
free switching between kilometer and mile
 

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Yes switch on all the loads but that's just part of the test. The new battery should show 12.6+V after you switched off the ignition then after a night rest it should not be less than 12.5V cos if it is means there is an excessive quiescent current draw which in many cases is caused by the alternator itself. It can give normal charge but if one diode is shot in the rectifier there is a drain through it while the charging voltage is still good. This is more complicated than it appears and it can be diagnosed only with oscilloscope which too few services are doing: Alternator Troubleshooting with an Oscilloscope

normally it's good to measure the drain to make sure everything is OK otherwise it will keep killing batteries. The easy way is to measure the voltage on the battery after it stood over night and if it's not below 12.5V you should be OK.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Good info. Thanks for that. It showed 13.5 v when I cranked it a couple of hours ago.

Started it again a few minutes ago and it showed 13.7v.
 

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Those voltages i said were about the battery without ignition on before you crank it so you need a multimeter for that
 

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it's logical: 20V DC(or somethig which includes 12VDC if the scale is different)
 

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Discussion Starter #39 (Edited)
Great; thanks.

Later I found the multi-meter (see pic). So where do I plug in the red and black wires? Do they stay where they are (which is where they were when I bought it)?
 

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Yep. Spin the dial to 20 DCV and off you go.
 
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