Window ECU
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95 Posts
"Im trying to find the window ecu" The location is behind the glovebox... this might help:
Window lift ECU - Land Rover Forums - Land Rover Enthusiast Forum
If you are looking for the part cvr500010... try:
CONTROL UNIT WINDOW LIFT RANGE ROVER CLASSIC & DISCOVERY I, CVR500010 - Land Rover Parts | Rovers North
Window lift ECU - Land Rover Forums - Land Rover Enthusiast Forum
If you are looking for the part cvr500010... try:
CONTROL UNIT WINDOW LIFT RANGE ROVER CLASSIC & DISCOVERY I, CVR500010 - Land Rover Parts | Rovers North
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3,190 Posts
My bet is the front regulator has a broken nylon roller or two. That's why it's moving slowly. As far as the rear are concerned, usually it's all or nothing. Pull the Window Lift Ecu out and check the circuit board for broken solder joints. It's easier to remove the board that to remove the entire unit from under the dash. Unplug the two connectors (one white and one black), pry the plastic cover off the front of the unit and the circuit board will slide out. Inspect and solder. Plug the connectors in and test the windows before you button everything up.
I usually sell used ones that I've repaired and that come with a 60 day warranty for $50 includings shipping. I can't believe a new one is close to $300 these days. Also, look at Atlantic British. I think they were selling a kit for fixing the Ecu for a lot less than the cost of a new one.
I usually sell used ones that I've repaired and that come with a 60 day warranty for $50 includings shipping. I can't believe a new one is close to $300 these days. Also, look at Atlantic British. I think they were selling a kit for fixing the Ecu for a lot less than the cost of a new one.
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106 Posts
I have replaced just the rollers before and I wonder if there's a direct fit drawer roller from lowes that can be fitted?
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106 Posts
I harvested then from a rear regulator from the junk yard out of necessity...it's all I could find at the time (10 years ago). I'm due for another refitt on the same rollers (always the rear roller, front windows, both sides). I think that particular position must endure a lot of pressure, so I would like to beaf it up with a stronger, more solid roller.
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3,190 Posts
Like I said above:
"It's easier to remove the board that to remove the entire unit from under the dash. Unplug the two connectors (one white and one black), pry the plastic cover off the front of the unit and the circuit board will slide out."
You can still slide the board out with the connectors plugged in. It's better if you do it before you remove the board for extra support but it can be done. I know it seems as thought the connectors aren't coming out but they will with a lot of effort.
"It's easier to remove the board that to remove the entire unit from under the dash. Unplug the two connectors (one white and one black), pry the plastic cover off the front of the unit and the circuit board will slide out."
You can still slide the board out with the connectors plugged in. It's better if you do it before you remove the board for extra support but it can be done. I know it seems as thought the connectors aren't coming out but they will with a lot of effort.
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3,190 Posts
Don't even bother with trying to get that 7mm nut that's buried in the back, covered by the rubber insulation, out. Rock the white connector back and forth to remove it. Have you used your thumb to depress the release on the other connector? If you're still having trouble you may need a flat head screw driver to press down on the release for that one. It will not simply unplug.
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