[sobieski]

2004 d2 w 195k miles.
Radiator split at seam on driver’s side tank. It was at least 7 years old (maybe more). Replaced it.
BUT after new radiator installed,
Bottom hose practically cold.

Replaced t-stat w soft spring motorad.
Bottom hose now warm but not hot-hot.
BUT temps at 205 while idling and 196 to 200 when driving.
I’d like to be sub-200 all the time. Any thoughts?

 

[sobieski]

Report update:

Topped off coolant from tstat replacement.
idled in driveway for 30 minutes: 205 then drop to 201.

Went to carwash, idled while vacuuming interier. Carwash outside.
It’s been running at idle and street for an hour. Temps up to 205 but more consistently at 201.

Any thoughts?

 

[sobieski]

Further report:
In Phoenix and it's only 66F out.
Idle temps get to 205 and it did touch 207 briefly, but mostly staying right around 198 to 201.
Am I paranoid?
Do you blame me?
Thanks for your comments and input - appreciate it!

 

[masantschi]

No. I'm paranoid too but mine isn't running that high Mike. I don't know what you have going on but something doesn't seem right to me. Mine was running JUST like that and I had a small headgasket leak in mine last year. It would never heat up enough to overheat but in the summer I was seeing 205 and then 212 idle - and that is just too high for my taste.

I'm sitting at 188 - 192 now and same as you - Phoenix.

 

[sobieski]

I am guessing I have some "seepage at the corners" of my heads, but don't think that would cause this.
Perhaps my tstat was mislabeled at the parts store?
What radiator do you have?
I have an AB radiator and softspring tstat, straight off the shelf.

Seems like the workshop manual does say tstat opens at 180 and is fully open at 204.
And at idle I'm at 200 to 205 - my only concern is this ain't even close to August in the Valley of the Sun!!!

Can I drill out the tstat and just be done with this?
What's another bullet proofing is there?
Thanks.

 

[redtruck12]

This is a new truck to you correct? Any idea what the temps were previous to the rad failure?
lots of issues historically with junky thermostats and motorad isn’t what I would consider a premium brand.
Lots of other potential causes
Is it fully bled? (I know you have lots of experience with this but had to mention)
-fan clutch
-water pump
- coolant cap
Etc.
I have to wonder what caused the rad to fail?

 

[V50_M66]

Make sure it's bled all the way. These trucks are a pain in the ass to bleed as I'm sure you and most D2 owners know. Then check your fan clutch.

 

[sobieski]

This is my same old truck - just reclaimed from the Mrs. and now no longer her daily driver.

I think the tstat stuck and caused radiator failure.

I replaced the radiator and upon my test drive after noticed the bottom hose literally cold (not even warm) - so replaced tstat.
Now, bottom hose is warm like it should be, but still reading these temps.

Raised the reservoir when filling like I always do and full stream out of bleed screw like normal - seems like it's bled.

I've done like 6 reservoir replacements so I think I have the fill part down ok, but shucks still not sure why I would temp would be 205.

PS - fan clutch feels good, good resistance.

 

[V50_M66]

Try cracking the bleed screw while holding the revs up - sometimes there are super stubborn bubbles that need to be forced out. It took me like 5 tries to fully bleed my truck when I redid the head gaskets, water pump, and radiator about a year ago.

 

[masantschi]

I am guessing I have some "seepage at the corners" of my heads, but don't think that would cause this.
Perhaps my tstat was mislabeled at the parts store?
What radiator do you have?
I have an AB radiator and softspring tstat, straight off the shelf.

Seems like the workshop manual does say tstat opens at 180 and is fully open at 204.
And at idle I'm at 200 to 205 - my only concern is this ain't even close to August in the Valley of the Sun!!!

Can I drill out the tstat and just be done with this?
What's another bullet proofing is there?
Thanks.

I've got an Allisport on the 01 and putting the Nissens in the 04. I don't know they make the Nissens I have anymore? I got it 10 years ago and it was an upgrade from stock (all aluminum, inc side-tanks). I got it from BPUtah, but again, that was a decade ago brutha.

Buddy of mine down in Buckeye is going with the bypass method. I'll let you know how it works out.

I'm with you there. FYI, mine was very small - seepage in the back and it wouldn't have been able to tell if you didn't know that trucks, if that makes sense as to how small my leak was.

 

[sobieski]

Need you to speak life - I don't know if I can do the heads on this thing again.
I'll try burping this tomorrow a.m. when it's cold

 

[sobieski]

UPDATE:
Raised reservoir, bleed screw steady stream.
Ran it for 45 minutes and it settled at 203F.
Bottom hose was warm but not hot.

Noticed a cool spot on the radiator - middle-left~ish and passenger side bottom corner.

I guess I never touched the radiator before - the drivers side is hot enough to fry an egg.
But middle-to-passenger side was not hot, not really even warm in those spots.

That don't seem right - but hoping you all can advise me.

 

[sobieski]

Updated UPDATE:
After a short drive to the corner store and back (left it running whilst inside) and the long way around the block to home, 205F in parking lot and 199 driving.
Radiator was actually warm to the touch all the way across when I got home. Hmmmm....
Could AB have shipped me a regular tstat by mistake?
#paranoidbutteachable

 

[V50_M66]

Updated UPDATE:
After a short drive to the corner store and back (left it running whilst inside) and the long way around the block to home, 205F in parking lot and 199 driving.
Radiator was actually warm to the touch all the way across when I got home. Hmmmm....
Could AB have shipped me a regular tstat by mistake?
#paranoidbutteachable

I got a 190 standard t-stat when I ordered a 180 soft spring from FCP Euro. Could very well be that.

 

[sobieski]

Well shucks, now I am chasing a ghost.
Anyway to tell on the outside of an installed tstat if it's truly a soft-spring (I am not pulling it out to test it, just yet).

I'm driving it to work 10mi one way - we'll see how/what she does and report back.

 

[V50_M66]

Usually soft spring are grey/black, normal are white in color. other than that, not sure

 

[sobieski]

I believe Soft spring tstats from Atlantic British have always been white also - which mine is (i think) ha!.😄

And V50, I checked out your truck - it looks kick-ass awesome!

 

[V50_M66]

I believe Soft spring tstats from Atlantic British have always been white also - which mine is (i think) ha!.😄

And V50, I checked out your truck - it looks kick-ass awesome!

Thanks!

 

[Moneypit]

2004 d2 w 195k miles.
Radiator split at seam on driver’s side tank. It was at least 7 years old (maybe more). Replaced it.
BUT after new radiator installed,
Bottom hose practically cold.

Replaced t-stat w soft spring motorad.
Bottom hose now warm but not hot-hot.
BUT temps at 205 while idling and 196 to 200 when driving.
I’d like to be sub-200 all the time. Any thoughts?

Get rid of the Tstat from LR. Go to inlinethermostat.com, do the bypass. I battled for years with Temp issues until i did this mod last summer. game changer...especially in the mountains on a hot summer day.

 

[sierrafery]

I guess I never touched the radiator before - the drivers side is hot enough to fry an egg.
But middle-to-passenger side was not hot, not really even warm in those spots.

If the middle of the radiator is not hot the viscous fan will not lock well cos the bimatalic spring is triggered by the radiator's radiant heat or the other way around once the fan is locked the radiator's middle will be cooled better cos there's more air flow