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2002 Land Rover Discovery 2
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Try cracking the bleed screw while holding the revs up - sometimes there are super stubborn bubbles that need to be forced out. It took me like 5 tries to fully bleed my truck when I redid the head gaskets, water pump, and radiator about a year ago.
THIS^^

Crack the bleed screw, allow bubbles and coolant to trickle out, keep revs between 1500-2000 for about 15-30min. That ought to get any lingering bubbles out. Works like a charm, I had a similar problem to yours not long ago.
 

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2003 Discovery 2 SE7
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796 Posts
You shouldn't need to do it for that long. If it's taking that long, throw some more revs at it and open the screw more
 

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2003 Discovery 2 SE7
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796 Posts
I cracked the bleed screw and ran it at 1500+ rpms and it seemed to (still) have a steady stream.
Drove it and still at 200 driving 205 idle. I'll keep driving it and see what I see.
It'll seem like that but you will get more air out. Crack it farther, give it some more revs, and see what happens. Or keep driving it and get the revs up and see what happens.
 

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2002 Land Rover Discovery 2
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223 Posts
It'll seem like that but you will get more air out. Crack it farther, give it some more revs, and see what happens. Or keep driving it and get the revs up and see what happens.
Agreed, it will seem good, but in reality it’ll get air out. This method makes a mess, there’s no doubt about it, but it does work. Just takes some time.
 

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Is the tank's cap fully and well tightened? cos if it's not it can run hotter or even overheat
 

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Further report:
In Phoenix and it's only 66F out.
Idle temps get to 205 and it did touch 207 briefly, but mostly staying right around 198 to 201.
Am I paranoid?
Do you blame me?
Thanks for your comments and input - appreciate it!
Land Rover Discovery 2 Inline Kit (inlinethermostats.com) Did an inline t-stat mod last year. Running 177-190. 180 on average. 190 on hot days or extreme conditions. I struggled for years with the 180 degree LR model t-stat pushing as high as 235 degree on 100+ degree days. Plus, any issues, hit autozone, grab a Chevy t-stat and install, no waiting for 3-5 days for a new plastic bottle t-stat.
 

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2001 & 2004 Discovery Series II SE7, with AND without SAI
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Ran it all day yesterday letting idle most of my stops. 194 on freeway. 199 most of the time with the occasional 205 but dropped immediately from stop. Hmmmm🤔
Mike, that seems a bit high to me for this time of year here bro.

Cheers,
Michael
 

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2001 & 2004 Discovery Series II SE7, with AND without SAI
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I'll let you know what I'm getting soon - finishing this '04 now.

I would say yes, those are consistent with what I was seeing with a regular tstat in my '01. With the 180, I stay mid/low 190's.
 

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It sounds to me like the thermostat is not a true 180° version. That said, there's nothing wrong with the temps you are reporting (the auxiliary electric fan doesn't even operate until the temp gets to 212°).

FWIW, when the thermostat in my truck stuck shut a little over 6 years ago I ordered a genuine LR PEL500110 (180°, soft spring). It came in an LR box and it's dark gray. My truck cruises at 188.6°, as reported by the UltraGauge, and idles in the mid to upper 190s.

I think people often get obsessed with low temps and with the inline mod. I don't think there's anything inherently wrong with doing the inline mod, but I personally don't see a need to do it so long as I'm seeing the temps I report here.
 

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That IAT is quite high but it depends much on the ambient temp too and how hot is under the bonnet... check it immediately after cold start in the morning cos then it should be very close to the ambient temp at idle... if it's much difference then the sensor is fubar
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Yeah, it's 105+F in Phoenix and that was a hot day, midday, driving around running errands. Looks like the Tstat is working, though, and my coolant temps are staying right inline despite the weather here.
 

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This is my same old truck - just reclaimed from the Mrs. and now no longer her daily driver.

I think the tstat stuck and caused radiator failure.

I replaced the radiator and upon my test drive after noticed the bottom hose literally cold (not even warm) - so replaced tstat.
Now, bottom hose is warm like it should be, but still reading these temps.

Raised the reservoir when filling like I always do and full stream out of bleed screw like normal - seems like it's bled.

I've done like 6 reservoir replacements so I think I have the fill part down ok, but shucks still not sure why I would temp would be 205.

PS - fan clutch feels good, good resistance.
i have a factory manual and it says 212f is operating temp but you can get a inline thermastat look on youtube it bypasses your factory thermastat and you can easily replace it with a 160 etc easily
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Been running at 194 to 201 consistently since I originally started this thread. I suspect my supposed “180 tstat” is actual a stock higher temp version. Rolling w it for now.
I know you all were wondering about this 🤣.
 
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