Just DO NOT use any type of engine flush in the oil. If it is gummed up it will washable the gunk through the bearings and other places that you do not want it to go.
Just DO NOT use any type of engine flush in the oil. If it is gummed up it will washable the gunk through the bearings and other places that you do not want it to go.
Thanks for the advice. When I looked into it, I read about more horror stories with that type of product than I have success stories, so I will avoid that stuff and stick to frequent oil changes. Just changing the oil every 200 miles or so worked wonders with my old Volvo, so I have no reason to doubt that just doing frequent oil changes will clean things up nicely in my D2's engine as well.
Yeah, as I said before, that stuff may be holding things together... clean as said, with frequent oil changes and don't drive it like you stole it. You'll know more as it cleans up.
So far, that has been what I have been doing, and it already seems to be helping. I haven't been driving it much though, as the tires are old, bald, and badly dry-rotted. I have ordered new ones, but they haven't showed up yet. Once I get those on, I will take it on a decently long trip, which hopefully will get everything nice and warm and help clean it out further. I think some nice long drives that get everything up to operating temp for a sustained period will help it a lot - drives over 20-25 minutes now make the tick disappear. It comes back the next time I drive it, but it seems to be quieting down a bit each time.
Congrats on your D2, nothing like them; my 01 has 212k on it with no end in sight. It has a tick that started when it was about 5 years old, appears in mine if I’ve lazily commuted a few days in a row (noticed long ago that it was absent after an hour or more of interstate speeds, which generally puts you at around 2400 rpm for prolonged periods); absent interstate running, spending a day or two in sport mode or even just intentionally running a few miles in 3rd gear at 50mph cleans it up. I use Rotella and change it every 3k miles (more often in summer if running in super dusty conditions) and I really think clean oil and avoiding high engine temps are the keys to longevity in these engines. An UltraGuage is a great addition to keep a good eye on engine temp and oil pressure - and if you’re going through the truck as time and money permits, I’d recommend a 180 degree rover thermostat at the top of the list (also makes those pesky head gaskets last longer). Anyway, for my truck, I’ve decided through the years that some occasional increased rpm driving (nothing dragstrip nutty) is needed to perhaps throw more oil into the top of my engine - tames the tick and smooths out my engine. Enjoy your D2!
Congrats on your D2, nothing like them; my 01 has 212k on it with no end in sight. It has a tick that started when it was about 5 years old, appears in mine if I’ve lazily commuted a few days in a row (noticed long ago that it was absent after an hour or more of interstate speeds, which generally puts you at around 2400 rpm for prolonged periods; absent interstate running, spending a day or two in sport mode or even just intentionally running a few miles in 3rd gear at 50mph cleans it up. I use Rotella and change it every 3k miles (more often in summer if running in super dusty conditions) and I really think clean oil and avoiding high engine temps are the keys to longevity in these engines. An UltraGuage is a great addition to keep a good eye on engine temp and oil pressure - and if you’re going through the truck as time and money permits, I’d recommend a 180 degree rover thermostat at the top of the list (also makes those pesky head gaskets last longer). Anyway, for my truck, I’ve decided through the years that some occasional increased rpm driving (nothing dragstrip nutty) is needed to perhaps throw more oil into the top of my engine - tames the tick and smooths out my engine. Enjoy your D2!
Thanks! I already love mine, and they are definitely something special.
It seems to me like these engines like being driven somewhat aggressively. On days when I take it easy, the noise doesn't go away, but some high-rpm driving for a little while makes the tick disappear and the engine overall runs a lot smoother and quieter.
I found a mechanical oil pressure gauge laying around in my stack of parts that I am in the process of installing. My truck is right in the middle of the oil pump failure VIN range, so keeping an eye on it seems like a good idea.
I re-did most of the cooling system when I bought the truck, but didn't do the thermostat. I will definitely be sure to pick up a 180 degree thermostat - it seems as though these things like to get quite hot. I'd much rather shell out a few bucks now for a new thermostat than hundreds or more for new head gaskets down the road. I will also invest in one of those OBDII-Bluetooth adapters (super cheap on Amazon) that gives readings to an app on my phone to make sure it doesn't get too hot. From what I've read, the factory gauge is not to be trusted.
It's certainly reassuring to hear that your truck is still going strong for all these years despite the tick.
I have read that a lot of people recommend Rotella and generally have good things to say about it. From what I can find, it seems to be available primarily in a diesel-engine blend. Is this what I should run, or should I seek out a gas-engine version instead?
Thanks! I already love mine, and they are definitely something special.
It seems to me like these engines like being driven somewhat aggressively. On days when I take it easy, the noise doesn't go away, but some high-rpm driving for a little while makes the tick disappear and the engine overall runs a lot smoother and quieter.
I found a mechanical oil pressure gauge laying around in my stack of parts that I am in the process of installing. My truck is right in the middle of the oil pump failure VIN range, so keeping an eye on it seems like a good idea.
I re-did most of the cooling system when I bought the truck, but didn't do the thermostat. I will definitely be sure to pick up a 180 degree thermostat - it seems as though these things like to get quite hot. I'd much rather shell out a few bucks now for a new thermostat than hundreds or more for new head gaskets down the road. I will also invest in one of those OBDII-Bluetooth adapters (super cheap on Amazon) that gives readings to an app on my phone to make sure it doesn't get too hot. From what I've read, the factory gauge is not to be trusted.
It's certainly reassuring to hear that your truck is still going strong for all these years despite the tick.
I have read that a lot of people recommend Rotella and generally have good things to say about it. From what I can find, it seems to be available primarily in a diesel-engine blend. Is this what I should run, or should I seek out a gas-engine version instead?
Yes, the Rotella T6 Heavy Duty Diesel oil - seems to strike a good balance of cleaning and lubing.
It also occurred to me driving in this morning (no staycation for me this pandemic, essential business grinds on) that I haven’t heard the tick since I recently replaced the crank position sensor - may be coincidence, but logically makes some sense that my old one with age and wear may have became less precise and possibly created some slight timing issues that in turn caused a tick.
Yes, the Rotella T6 Heavy Duty Diesel oil - seems to strike a good balance of cleaning and lubing.
It also occurred to me driving in this morning (no staycation for me this pandemic, essential business grinds on) that I haven’t heard the tick since I recently replaced the crank position sensor - may be coincidence, but logically makes some sense that my old one with age and wear may have became less precise and possibly created some slight timing issues that in turn caused a tick.
Thanks. I'll use that next time I change the oil.
That is very interesting about the crank position sensor. Let me know if the noise comes back. I may order one anyway - from what I've read, they have a pretty high failure rate, and a seller on eBay is currently running a sale on them.
Stay safe!
Update!
I have finished installing a mechanical oil pressure gauge in my D2. It was laying around in my parts bin, and looked pretty good, so I put it in (I verified that the gauge was working and accurate beforehand). It is plumbed into the upper hole in the front cover where an oil cooler line would go if my truck had one. I am running 10W-40 motor oil, if it makes any difference.
My oil pressure readings are:
Cold Idle - 49 PSI
Cold 2K RPM - 52 PSI
Hot Idle - 8-9 PSI
Hot 2K RPM - 36 PSI
It's not part of the usual measurements, but I noticed that it consistently makes over 40 PSI at over 2500 RPM.
Seems to be a bit low, especially the hot readings. My mind jumped straight to the fact that my truck is well within the VIN range for failed oil pumps. However, I noticed a large amount of sludge where the oil filler neck screws into the valve cover, and thought that there might be sludge or other gunk clogging the oil pick up screen. I'm obviously no expert, so I could be very wrong. There is definitely a considerable amount of sludge in there, as when I open the oil fill cap right after a drive (and the engine has just been switched off), there is a large amount of steam coming from the oil fill for a few minutes. I am assuming this is water that is trapped in the sludge and other contamination boiling off from the heat of the engine. The oil still looks very clean after around 120 miles of somewhat aggressive driving, however.
My thoughts are that the tick is some combination of sticky lifters and not enough oil getting up to the rockers.
Would it be smart to pull the oil pan to inspect for a clogged pick up screen and to clean sludge out of the pan, or, considering the oil pump failures on '03s, should I bite the bullet and replace the pump? Or are my pressures close enough to where they should be, and should I just run a thicker oil to bump them up a couple PSI?
The only reason I haven't already ordered a replacement pump is that I have read that sometimes replacing it doesn't make any difference for some engines, especially if the pressures are close to where they should be, due to wear on crankshaft bearings that reduces the tolerances, which uses more oil to fill the larger gaps. I would link the thread, but I forgot to save it and can't seem to find it.
Thoughts?
I have put around 390 miles on my truck since I last changed the oil, and I changed it again today. What came out was incredibly dark, especially considering the low mileage on the oil. This tells me the oil is doing its job to clean up the sludge in my engine.
Because of the metal contamination in my oil last time, I dumped out my filter and sure enough, there was very fine metal in it, although probably about 10% of the volume that came out last time.
Not exactly reassuring, but I suppose a lot of that could have still been in the engine and isn't necessary from "new" wear.
Unfortunately, I didn't have much time when I did this, so I didn't drop the pan to inspect/clean it. I will make sure to do that next time I change it.
Also, I have noticed that every time I shut the engine off after driving it and open the oil cap, a large amount of steam billows out of the cap for around 15-20 minutes after the engine has shut off. When I was changing the oil, there was significantly more steam when there was no oil in the crankcase and both the drain plug and filter were off the truck. I am assuming this steam is water in the sludge boiling off, and the larger amount of steam when there was no oil in it was due to additional airflow through the engine or more sludge being exposed to air (or both). Either way, I took a video of it:
Overall, the tick is very consistent. When I first start the truck, the tick isn't there. After about 5 minutes of idling and warming up, it starts to show up. When hot, the tick completely goes away at idle, and when revved, acts exactly the same as the previous video I took, albeit slightly quieter. Overall, the engine runs great, and aside from a few small oil leaks (most likely rear main seal if I had to guess), seems to be as good as new, besides the ticking of course.
Driving spiritedly on long drives seems to be allowing the oil to clean out the sludge quite well, judging by the dark color, so I will continue to do it, probably changing the oil at 300 mile intervals.
Should I be worried about the metal contamination?
Is there anything I should be doing differently?
Thanks.
PERSONALLY - I wouldn't worry about it till it's cleaned up. You have no clue what's going on in there until that happens. Honestly, even dropping the pan right now is going to be a waste - you know you have that crap in there right now. I wouldn't waste a new gasket etc until you are sure things are cleaner? Once you've cleaned it up, you'll know what's new. Just stay the course...
Once it's draining relatively clean on those changes, then we can start to figure out what's going on there. Just pay attention to the other sounds it's making in the meantime.
Lifter all day. Had the same issue. Run some Shell 15-40 through it and see if that fixes it. If not, pull the top end off and do the lifters. I had two that stuck and made the same noise. After replacing all, it went away for good. 15k miles and no noise.
Also you cannot run 10w-30 in it. I did in Canada and it killed my cam.
PERSONALLY - I wouldn't worry about it till it's cleaned up. You have no clue what's going on in there until that happens. Honestly, even dropping the pan right now is going to be a waste - you know you have that crap in there right now. I wouldn't waste a new gasket etc until you are sure things are cleaner? Once you've cleaned it up, you'll know what's new. Just stay the course...
Once it's draining relatively clean on those changes, then we can start to figure out what's going on there. Just pay attention to the other sounds it's making in the meantime.
Sounds like a plan. My thoughts on dropping the pan was to clean up sludge down there, but the oil seems to be doing a great job taking care of that on its own. I am always keeping a close eye on it, so I will let you know if any new noises pop up.
Lifter all day. Had the same issue. Run some Shell 15-40 through it and see if that fixes it. If not, pull the top end off and do the lifters. I had two that stuck and made the same noise. After replacing all, it went away for good. 15k miles and no noise.
Also you cannot run 10w-30 in it. I did in Canada and it killed my cam.
That's good to hear. I'll run that next time I change it and report back after some miles and a few changes.
I have 10W-40 in it right now, but I will switch over to 15W-40 Rotella and see what happens. Might help bump up my slightly low oil pressure by a few PSI as well because it is slightly thicker.
Lifter all day. Had the same issue. Run some Shell 15-40 through it and see if that fixes it. If not, pull the top end off and do the lifters. I had two that stuck and made the same noise. After replacing all, it went away for good. 15k miles and no noise.
Also you cannot run 10w-30 in it. I did in Canada and it killed my cam.
I ran Rotella 10w-30 (Spring thru Fall) for 10 years in my current truck and only switched to 15w-40 [also Rotella T5] since moving to the desert. I never had any issues with 10w-30 or any fluid that was recommended by the Rave, as long as it was changed before the major annual temperature variations.
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