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Add another to the list. My 06 has the same problem. Battery finr as well as terminals. Sounds like a ground issue like aachour83 has seen. Thanks aachour83 for the info, which I will take to my mechanic.
 

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I fixed mine! i have a 2006 Range Rover 4.4 with the same intermittent starting problems, it started with a few clicks then became progressively worse over 6 months. I read this post 50 times before but I found a few other posts similar and those posts said it was most likely the starter. I pulled the starter motor off and the housing to the starter motor cracked, so when I would turn the ignition on the starter motor was hitting the cracked piece and not engaging into the flywheel of the trans. That explains why it was intermittent since it would sometimes engage past the cracked piece. I bought a piece of **** remanufactured starter from Pep Boys for $170 bucks and it starts perfect now...
 

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RRSS starting issue

Thank you all for the posts concerning the RR starting issue. I've just experienced this same issue and my 08 RRSS is at the LR dealership now. The've diagnosed a bad starter. They've replaced the starter and wanted to keep it overnight. After reading these posts, I am hoping the they got it right. I'll find out tomorrow.
 

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just to follow up... I had a loose wire connection to my starter. The Mechanic said he had to rotate a full 3 times to tighten it. Could it have really been that simple? I had a local mechanic look at just my connections. The land rover dealership would have surely ripped me off! It has been a full 3 months now with no issues. One happy guy right here!:D
 

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not starting

I had the same non starting problem with my 2006 RR Sport. Myself along with a friend of mine found that there was a loose wire connector that connects to the starter. Its the wire that runs to the ignition switch. problem solved. I'm the one who noticed the wire wasn't connected when we dropped the starter and I'm not even close to being a mechanic!
 

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I also have a 2006 RR sport. All my issues started about a year ago. It first started with the door locks locking and unlocking while all the dash lights coming on and it wouldn't start when this happens. I didn't realize until it was dark outside that the hazard lights were flashing as well. Earlier this year being frustrated we tried hitting the dash and this would make it work again. We took the cluster out and tightened the wires and the issues stopped for a good 6 months, now that the issue is back and it's gotten worse. Sometimes hitting the dash won't help and then the power steering goes out and it won't go out of first gear. Dangerous and extremely frustrating. Haven't taken it to a dealership, I'm in Alaska and our RR dealership closed. Just want to fix it and sell it.
 

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Hi i am having the same problem. I just try starting my 97 range rover at walmart and no hope. I had to walk home with my kids in a 103degree heat, though i live very close. My car lights are on, radio is on. But the dash broad is off and the car won't. Start. Not even a click when i turn the key. The walmart auto shop even try to jump but the battery but still the car won't start. So they are saying its not the battery. Am speechless.
 

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What happens if you measure battery voltage at the battery when you turn the key - if it drops below 10 - then current is probably being supplied to starter motor - if not it could be bad relay ? Or ignition switch ? Bad ground - the problem might be less intermittent. I had similar problem on my 911 - apparently vet common - cheap plastic ignition switch behind the key - lucky that was only a $12 part and 30 min DIY fix - not sure how complex it is on these cars - starter relay should also be cheap to replace - the click could indicate bad relay ...
 

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Possible Solution to intermitent not starting

If you have the following symptoms , this might be a fix for you, and save you a packet of money!

1) Car will not start when turning the ignition key, and date/temp readings are ----- on the dash.
Waiting between 3 - 40 min for the temp reading to re-appear, with a beep, indicated the car can start again
Trying to start multiple times and fiddling with starter relays under the hood, on occasion seems to get the car going, but is nothing related to that, it's just co-incidence that it starts afterwards. Unless of course you have a bad starter motor relay or starter motor, but then you won't get the immobilizer effects kicking in.
I have found the fault is related to temperature, and just opening the windows or shielding the dash from heat can work.
You simply have to leave the ignition switch on, and when the temp read re-appears you are good to go.


2) You are driving and:
You hear the locks clicking
A beep
Entertainment system and aircon shutdown
Hazards come on
If you switch the ignition off it might not start
This fault can cycle intermittently on and off whilst driving

The fault gets worse over time, and with me being in a hot country South Africa, I noticed on a particularly hot day temps over 34Deg.C the faults completely disapeared.

The dashboard is terminated on the High Speed CAN bus, which seems to talk to other modules like immobilizer, entertainment, zircon etc, and the system goes in to lockdown mode, if communication is disrupted. The main symptom is that the dash no longer receives the outside temp reading, which is quite telling, I have no idea what part of the car sends the temp readings.

The diagnosis approach I used, once it was fairly certain the fault was intermittent, temperature related, and dashboard related, was to strip out the dashboard, remove its rear cover, then connect it back balanced over the rear of the steering wheel.

Just being more exposed to the air temperature, listened the symptoms . Using a can of Freeze use to isolate thermal related dry joints in electronics, spraying different places when the fault appeared, eventually lead to the corner of the MCU chip 64F2638F20 which is in a 128 pin Quad Flat Pack (QFP) format. Pins 37/38 HRxD1/HTxD1 seem to be the culprit, from where the bus emanated. Scanning the chip with a thermal infrared thermometer showed a distinct hotspot on this corner, no bought related to the power to drive the high speed bus. The obvious conclusion is that the thermal cycling of the part had causes a joint on one of these pins to fail intermittently, and a quick spray of freeze in this area, caused the fault to go away after about 15-30 seconds. Possibly because the high speed bus protocol had to re-establish itself.


I had some links but am unable to submit on a first post

So the fix, is to re-solder pins 37/38, which are on the lower RHS as you look at the QFP. They are covered in a conformal coating, which disintegrates with heat, so running the dry soldering iron over the pins, removes the coating, and then with a wetted tip. you can re-flow the two joints. I found i best to work through my iPhone with camera zoom at max, or there was no chance to get this right. Make sure you don't form a solder bridge between the pins.

This process of diagnostics, took several months, and having the can of freeze on hand, made the problem way less severe with a workaround.

I hope this can be useful to some of you, and I realize you may need to get the help of someone handy with a soldering iron and good eye sight. If not your local electronic repair shop, could also be contacted to reflow the joints for you.

I believe repacking the dashboard is in the region of $1,500 and requires specific programming, and transferring the milage back, so not really a weekend swap out. I also found the scrap people only wanting to sell all the other immobilizer components with the dash.

Good Luck.
 

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I have a 07 Range Rover Sport HSC, I am having the same Problem with the clicking I was starter solenoid. but it acts also like a bad ground loose cable. but when I turn the everything dies but comes back after a minute and has 12 volts again. also mine is not connecting to the parking brake or communicating and says go slow something wrong with suspension and if any of you. have had a battery go bad in the fob they are 3 to 5 hundred dollars to buy a new one and they are glued together. Well I sent to amazon about 10 dollars for a new battery (special) and fob shell and it works just fine. I am on my way to get a battery for the RR and hope that and checking the ground will be my answer to this common problem as it looks to me. if it works saved myself the lots of time changing out the starter.....AlexR
 

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I have a 07 Range Rover Sport HSC, I am having the same Problem with the clicking I was starter solenoid. but it acts also like a bad ground loose cable. but when I turn the everything dies but comes back after a minute and has 12 volts again. also mine is not connecting to the parking brake or communicating and says go slow something wrong with suspension and if any of you. have had a battery go bad in the fob they are 3 to 5 hundred dollars to buy a new one and they are glued together. Well I sent to amazon about 10 dollars for a new battery (special) and fob shell and it works just fine. I am on my way to get a battery for the RR and hope that and checking the ground will be my answer to this common problem as it looks to me. if it works saved myself the lots of time changing out the starter.....AlexR
 

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I just replaced my Battery that I got at Auto zone and I crossed my fingers and turned the key. The Range Rover came to life. everything working as it should. This was an easy fix now to see how long this fix will last..i will check back in around March or sooner and tell you if my 07 Range Rover is still running smooth and starting up each time I turn the key.
 

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Same problem

I am having the EXACT same problem you are. I even left my 06 Sport with the dealership for 10 days. They could not replicate the problem.

The problem went away for a few weeks, but just resurfaced again this morning. Interestingly enough, about 5/6 of the time, I can get it started with jumper cables. This might just be pure coincidence as the battery is just fine. I have no clue.

My dealership is stumped as well. Their best guess suggestion is to replace the starter, but no guarantee that this is the solution. I don't see any other choice for me at this point. I cannot continue to be intermittently stranded.

Making the situation worse, the parts manager says these starters are on "critical backorder" and he has no idea if it will take weeks or months to receive one.

Is this happening to others?!?!? There are at least two of us now.
I'm having the same issue in my 2008 RS HSE. I have several stored codes and they all tell me different things are wrong with the vehicle. I replaced the mass flow sensor, and cleaned the throttle body housing. I originally thought my cars motor wasn't turning over because my key fob may have a low battery. Now I'm leaving towards an starter issue
 
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