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engine ticking

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46K views 17 replies 12 participants last post by  CT090  
#1 ·
the engine is now ticking.im thinking its the lifters.has any one else had ticking in their engine.anything else it could be? also how much did repairs come out to so i could get a price range so i wont be overcharged?
 
#3 ·
How many miles on the engine, is your vin on Rovers hit list for a failing oil pump/engine?
Don't guess before replacing parts, it can be a bad rocker shaft, bad oil pressure, rocker arm, push rod lifter or warn cam. You will need to open it up and inspect the entire valve train to find and fix the problem.
 
#5 ·
it has 92k and yes it is in the vin range.have you heard of dumping 1 quart of oil and filling that dumped quart with ATF transmission fluid for 500 miles then new oil change?i researched and that came up a lot but i dont know if that should even be done
 
#6 ·
Why don't you send me your number and I'll give a few different options.
 
#7 ·
head gasket

Disco Mike, I am in the middle of replacing my head gaskets because my 04 disco was consuming a little coolant and i also had that anoying ticking sound. the only thing that i found in the valve train was 1 lifter that moved in it's tappet more freely than the others. I swapped it with one next to it and it moved just as freely in the bore...not sloppy but freely up and down. I dont know if it had anything to do with the fact that this cam lobe was at max lift. i swapped them back to their original spot.

I had a guy explain to me that sometimes the rockers will grab the pushrod because the seat wears out, so while I was at British Pacific, I purchased a right and a left rocker.

I swapped the rocker for that position anyway, but i feel like i am guessing. Should i replace all lifters or is there a way to test them? I have everything apart now and would like to get rid of this tick once and for all.

Also, I did not find any obvious mark on the old head gasket that would have led me to believe that was where the coolant was mixing with the cylinder. My oil was frothy with that nasty water/oil mixture the last time i changed it.

Am i grabbing at straws here? do i have a junk motor? is there something that i can check while i have it apart? I am using the RAVE manual with every step. I have rebuilt a few motors, mostly air cooled VWs and a few Pontiac small blocks, so i have a small clue but am not an ASE mechanic.

Help!!! 909-463-8229 Dave Hanson
 
#8 ·
Dave,
Do you have ridges in your gasket firing rings? If not, then you are probably lucky and don't have a bad block, but the oil mixing is never a good sign....

I'd fit a new cam and a full set of lifters personally (also compare prices from the UK places like Turners, V8D, etc).
Check ALL rockers very carefully - ie disassemble them. Check the steel insert where the pushrod sits is not worn or loose.

Check straightness of the pushrods, and compare lengths.

Have a shop check the level on the heads, and perhaps if you have more than 60K consider having them touch up the valve seats whilst you are at it?

As regards the coolant, this can come from the (many) plugs at the back of the engine, as well as the valley gasket...

When re-assembling it all, check the lash in the valvetrain - it might be that you just have too much in one area (hence the pushrod length comparison).

Finally, for peace of mind, consider ARP bolts. They are $100 more than the stretch bolts but are re-usable and bulletproof.
 
#9 ·
2003discoII,
so far, i have spent $235 on the head gasket kit with bolts from british pacific
$85 on O-rings that didnt come in the kit, spark plugs, coolant, various lubes.
Tomorrow, another trip to British Pacific for a new set of lifters and plug wires, probably another $160

Not too bad compared to God knows how much at the dealer. the only tools you need are a socket set in 1/2 drive, torque wrench up to 80ft-lbs....nothing special other than the fancy bicycle cable hose clamp pliers. If you dont know what i am talking about, google it. They are a god send for those Rover-style hose clamps.

Download the Rave manual and you can do it. when you take off those secondary air injectors, i found that the adapters tend to rotate with the brass nuts so hold the square head of the adapter in place with a 19mm wrench while you use the 29mm(I think that was what is was) to rotate the brass nut. Also, liberal amounts of liquid wrench. i called the dealer, they are $300 each.

I am new to Land Rovers and I have to say.....i cant believe how brittle all the plastic parts get in only a 7 year old car. I have a 76 Pontiac Trans Am in the garage right next to it and it still has a supple original vinyl interior. I am constantly cleaning up the crumbling wire loom.

I also spoke to Disco Mike and he helped me discover that i had 2 bad lifters out of 16, so i will replace all of them. i did measure the push rods and they are all the same length. hopefully this was my tick!

Just read Binggg's thread on the novice head gasket replacement and it had invaluable information that was written in blood...his blood. I will be sure to use liberal amounts of RTV on the valley gasket joints and pray that i am not posting videos of smoke emanating from my tailpipes
 
#10 ·
i talked to my mechanic and hes charging me $650 for labor to change lifters,rockers,ect everything so i am going to take it to him since i need it done fast and dont have much time lately since school break is about to end
 
#11 ·
I have an 03 disco and i also have the dreaded ticking noise i am a landrover tech in delaware so i have a good supply of parts the engine has 110000 miles on it and i went crazy looking for the tick for a while i replaced the front cover, all lifters, rockershafts, and pushrods and had the heads sent to our machine shop.. nothing got rid of the tick the other day i was on the phone with one of rovers engineers and he told me its a cam bearing issue and is a very costly fix the easiest solution while it may not be the best is to warm the engine so the tick is very audible and then slowly rev the motor untill it stops mine stoped at about 750 rpm keep track of where the rpms are when the noise stops. now using that as a reference adjust your ide using the throttle cable adjustments (like i said not the greatest way to do things but it works) another note i put chassis ears all over the engine and the sound seems to come from the front cover or the valve covers but the cam is right behind the front cover obviously and that is where the noise comes from but the noise is completley harmless just annoying as hell
 
#12 ·
Dico II 2004

We too have the ticking sound hot or cold, and also truck is taking a lot of OIL. Service engine light is flashing on and off. Any thoughts as where to start? Came on all of a sudden as truck was running terrific! Thx in advance!
 
#17 ·
We too have the ticking sound hot or cold, and also truck is taking a lot of OIL. Service engine light is flashing on and off. Any thoughts as where to start? Came on all of a sudden as truck was running terrific! Thx in advance!
I'm thinking that your ticking noise is not the same as the ticking noise that everyone else is talking about - that's my guess. I had this/your issue on both of my Discovery's and resolved both by switching to a thicker oil. The thinner oils seem to become absorbed into the engine and seep through gaskets and seals. I used to lose about a quart of oil per month until I switched to thicker stuff, now the truck runs great, the ticking is gone, and *most* of the oil is accounted for during oil changes.

Just a thought!
 
#15 ·
????? Back from the dead?.. The post I mean
I think?
Timing chain tensioner?.... Dam mine is missing;)
 
#16 ·
Someone is pissed about the timing chain tensioners in his LR4 I am guessing.

Couldn't be bothered though to learn anything and has decided every ticking noise ever is tensioners.