Nice rover, now let's see it dirty and out of the mall parking lot.

 

Don't worry, I didn't seek out the locking rear diff for nothing... The first order of business though will be getting me & my 4k lb snowmobile trailer through the mountains of NY, VT, NH & ME.

 

Nice, 1 1/2" fills the wheel wells nicely. Be sure to get an alignment if using permanently.

Others may disagree but I'm not thrilled by the idea of driving off-road in the "new off-road" height unless conditions deem it necessary. It puts unnecessary strain on the drivetrain/CVs and restricts articulation a good deal, let alone if you go into the new extended modes. You'll actually be losing about 1/2" from standard off-road height (new normal) though by going 1 1/2" no?

I'd still rather see a speed over-ride type modification for the height sensors. ISTR someone working on that awhile back but haven't heard news on it.

 

My problem with the off road height is the speed override. How often do you off-road, when you don't have a 40mph dirt road section? I will use the "new" off-road height only when I truly need the clearance. I should have somewhere near 11 1/2" ground clearance in off-road mode now.

 

I suspect you could prematurely wear out the air springs or worse the valves. and valves are no picnic to diagnose with a slow leak.

 

how does lifting it with modified sensor rods make the valves wear out prematurely?

 

Ok this thread has caught my interest. Logical, did you actually have rubbing on your wiring harness or did you move it pre-emptively?

Also...using the new off-road height only when you need the clearance? I'll be interested to know how that turns out! I said that myself....and then I got addicted to the extra ground clearance! However I run 275/65s and if I'd be rubbing a lot if I don't keep it up in the new off-road height.

I don't necessarily share the same concerns as sideview w.r.t. the suspension components, mostly because trails are about 5-10 miles long and they're done at under 10 mph....AND the LR3 is designed to function in Extended Height anyway. What I'd be more concerned about is prolonged use of the rod-mod and driving in regular off-road height at highway speeds.

I'm not saying that Tami's points aren't valid, because they are...but I guess I'm just less concerned with them. ...or maybe I just tell myself that to feel better about being in the new off-road height!

Anyhow...please let me know about the wiring harness. I haven't observed any rubbing on my rig, but now feel like I should move them! I thought only folks running the Coopers (285s) were experiencing this.

 

I had the slightest contact with the harness when turning full lock to the left. - if it's hitting, you will hear it. I decided to go with the relatively modest 1 1/2 lift because I want to run it full time. It's no picnic changing the rods in 5° weather. A standard coil spring lift has it's risks as well to driveline components. You have to pay to play!

 

I find it really interesting that yours rubbed and mine doesn't with taller tires. Granted, I run the rod-mod taller than you do, but still....I used to run 285s too and it didn't rub but that was with aftermarket rims with a different offset and that may've helped.

I did used to hear a sound when turning but I don't think it was the harness I think it was part of the fender flare or maybe that plastic flap you mentioned. It used to happen on either side...that was with the (wider) Coopers. The MT/Rs don't rub in front at all, just in back on occasion.

I also put some electrical tape over the harness and went on a trail run...figuring that if there was any rubbing the tape would come off! It didn't. It is strange but I think there is some inconsistency in where the LR3 has the harness located. It seems to be an issue for some of us and not for others.

???

 

wow Sideview you are alive

 

Hi Army, how's it going over there? Hope you guys and gals had a nice Christmas dinner I might be around more often if the mods would unban our IP lol.

 

In Europe (and US I'm sure) guys are running 2" spacers and rod mods for a total of 4" over stock. I think the 1 1/2 will have little effect on the articulation, and the extra wear & tear doesn't seem to extreme.

Would the 2" spacers help you keep full articulation (and place less stress on the bags?), or is their a limitation in the suspension elsewhere (rather then the air springs)?

I will be getting a full alignment once I commit to a full time height.

 

Did you get banned?

 

Tami,

I read the same thing. I think the guys who had issues may've been at "Super Extended Height" going over an obstacle at full lock...but I don't remember.

I also don't like losing access height because I NEED it to get into my parking garage! It sucks that I have to park outside if I have the mod installed.

I have actually been thinking about this thread a bit more today. I agree that if the mod was on full-time or if the rig was at extended height for a long period of time that there could be CV issues. ...but I was thinking even more about the "articulation quandary."

I've concluded that there is no loss of articulation at all. That is, if we stick strictly to the definition of articulation being the ability of the suspension to push the wheels down to find traction. Then we measure it in vertical wheel travel. The LR3, either with the rod-mod on or off, has the same 10+ inches in front and 13+ inches in back, of wheel travel. What is different, and I think what you are really alluding to, Tami, is spring-force at the wheel. The equation for spring-force, if I remember right, is F=kdx^2, where that "d" is really a delta. What it says is that the force is determined by the spring constant, k, (which doesn't change for the air-spring whether it's mod'd or not) and the distance it's compressed or the "change in displacement in the x direction." This is the part that would change. If the rod-mod is mounted and say for instance the driver's side front wheel starts to travel over a pothole, the force exerted on that wheel by the spring will be less because it will have displaced less. Now keep in mind that this wheel will also be the one with the least amount of traction since the weight of the rig would be on the other tires. Also keep in mind that at the end of the range, it's all the same because dx would be max, or 10+ inches. So really you're losing 2" (or 1.5" for poster Logical) squared of spring force. Another thing to consider is that on even ground this is a moot point because the normal force exerted on each tire would be evenly distributed on all 4 tires.

So, to summarize....the effect of running the rod-mod is a marginal loss of friction force on the tire that matters the least in situations where the suspension flexes between off-road height and extended height.

Finally, and this may be the real equalizer for me....I have the HD package so none of this even matters. The rod-mod passes the "seat of the pants" test. I'd never go back. The LR3 with 32" tires and 12.5" of clearance is an unstoppable force...but I would not want to run it full time. Ironically the title of this thread refers to compromise between on-road and off-road setups. I don't compromise! I have to do the freakin' grunt work of changing back 'n forth...but it's worth it.

 

I would agree if I just set aside a day to dedicate to offroading. But what happens when I'm traveling down an unplowed road & want more more then 7" clearance & the ability to hit 35MPH on occasion? It's different for everybody, but I want decent capability without pre-planning. Ideally I would have one LR3 w/ 18" steel rims, 33's M/T's, Rovertyme bumpers & winch, sliders, etc. Even then wouldn't want my daily to run road tires & height.

 

Nobody is questioning the route you've taken...I would consider it as well if I had a legit garage to park my rig in. It would be really tempting.

Keep in mind that a stock LR3 (no rod-mod) with 31.5" tires like the Coopers has roughly 11" of ground clearance....which means 9" in normal height (no speed governing). I'm not saying that this is preferrable; I'm just being nit-picky about the technicalities. Your rig looks great and I think the route you've taken is just fine.

 

Yeah, it's all a trade off - and we all have different priorities. Many people would say it's crazy to run 31 1/2" tire full time - more rolling resistance, throws speedometer off, etc.

Stock ground clearance is listed at 7.3". A 2010 Subaru Outback has 8.7". With the tires that brings it to 8.3" without being limited to 30mph. So my setup has roughly 9.8" clearance all the time, (about the same as a 2010 4-runner with similar diameter tires on the trail model), with the option of hitting a button & going to around 12" in tight spots (I will probably use even higher extended mode sparingly...) Nice to be able to run behind a Subaru at 30MPH without dragging....

I researched the rod mod & tire choices heavily, and found people running 2.5" for trail only, others running it full time, but nobody running less full time. I think it's a good compromise & figured I'd post it to help others decide what works for them. The LR3 is about the perfect vehicle for my mixed use, if only they would bring the diesel over for the LR4, so I could start the wait for a off lease one.......

 

Okay so you're talking about the ground clearance at normal height....7.7 or 7.3 or whatever. I've only seen it listed at Off-road Height and the literature said 9.7 inches.

I think what you've got going is a good full-time setup. It's probably smart to go something less than 2" for full-time rod-mod use. I don't know how I feel about going bigger tires full time, I guess it depends on how much bigger. It's pretty common knowledge that if you go "too" big then you have to re-gear and all that in order to keep it feeling the same. ...but then there could be play in your steering/suspension and all that. I ran the 31.5" Coopers for a while and I think they felt pretty darn good on the LR3. They are wider than stock, too.

What's the diameter on your tires again, Logical? They're 265/65s, right?

 

The Hankook's are also 31.5" and the biggest I would suggest full time. I'm very happy with them overall. The difference performance wise is subjective, but I think I notice it a bit. The 1 1/2" diameter difference makes the speedometer read 3.5MPH fast @ 70MPH, and drops the axle ratio from 3.54 to 3.37. Probably not going to help my towing any... Oh well.

 

Hankook also has a P265/60R18 ATM RF10 that is 30.5" - less then a 1/2 over stock. Then there would be zero rubbing issues, and the speedometer would be thrown off by a little over 1mph @ 70. Anybody no how to correct the speedometer on the LR3's?

 

I like that diameter. If you get concerned down the road with the rod-mod, at least you have the adjustable version and you can go with a 1" mod, which should give you enough clearance and should allay any real concern with CV wear.

Nice looking tires! I like the color of your rig, too. I went with Black, but the Red one always caught my eye.

I probably won't have to replace my off-road tires for a long long time...I only put about 2000 miles per year on those puppies! My street shoes will wear out eventually though; I'll prolly put Nokian WRG2s on next.

 

let me know wen you want a set of rods. I havent had any ware issues with the mod over the last few years, I have left it on for up to 4 months I have it off and on all the time.

 

Didn't someone in AU have a control button inside to control the the rod adjustment? Can't seem to find it now, maybe I was dreaming it

 

No, I think you are thinking of the guy who dose the mud pit competitions and takes his bumper off silver LR3. He has two rods mounted and just flips one off and the other on quick. He is on disco3 and wasa featured in LRL when it was going. But I could be wrong.

 

I've read a post where someone bought a fancy (and spendy) computer that reads and clears faults...and it also can tune the air suspension to different heights!

 

Yeah, I looked briefly into that - but couldn't find anything affordable.