Fluid level?

Does the instrument panel indicate the correct gear?

 

yes it shows the correct gear. the trans is actually over filled..

 

Be sure the tranny fluid is correct, when following the instructions on the dipstick. If it is over full, then correct that first.
Next, if the gearshifter is moving freely and its displaying the correct gear selected, I would check that the linkage on the tranny is still hooked up and turning the selector shaft on the side of the transmission. It will be on the drivers side of the tranny and easily visible. If you suspect that, you can remove the nut and the linkage, then select a gear by hand. Although with you being able to put it into neutral this doesnt sound too promising. Free and quick to check though non the less.
Being able to put it in park and that stopping the rig, then rolling it freely in neutral, kind of rules out the transfer case for the most part.
Any noises etc when you try to put it in gear?
Or when it tried to reverse under its own power?

Martin

 

No noise whatever...put in in reverse it backed about a foot andit was like it ease....d back out..then nothing.will go out and correct fluid and get back to you...thanks...

 

Maybe try checking the shifter cable too like I said above. Slim chance that it is maybe out of whack or stretched. At least I hope so!
Best of luck
Martin

 

If the transmission is stuck in Park, the cause can be a blown fuse (check the fusebox under the RH front seat) or failure of the brake light switch. As Gill964 reports, "The result of an inoperative switch is no brake lights which does not allow you to take it out of park. The brake switch is located just behind the brake petal about an inch long and black. Replacement cost less than $40 US".

 

You guys aren't real familiar with the P38, are you?

If the shifter and instrument panel are indicating that the transmission is in a gear other than park, the shift lever is doing its job, the cable is doing its job and the arm on the side of the transmission is doing its job.

At this point, we should think to disconnecting a cooling line and looking to see if we have fluid flowing.

 

Touchy......
Still was worth checking the shift rail on the transmission IMHO. Takes all of 2 minutes, and is totally 100% free, not to mention clean

Martin

 

Clean? On a Rover?

There is no reason to bother. We know that this function is working as the switch that indicates what gear the transmission is in cannot move unless the shift cable is turning the arm.

We have proof the shifter is working by virtue of the instrument panel display, and the ability to put the vehicle in neutral and roll the vehicle.

 

i got the fluid right,i also checked the shifter from under the car...it works...still nothing.i will disconnect a cooling and see what i get...if no flow what does that mean...new trans or new pump......thanks for the help..

 

Well, mine is pretty clean, in spots....
If there is no flow when the rig is running, then the pump needs a good looksie.
The pump is number 10 in the picture:

Right behind the torque converter basically.

Martin

 

where should i take the line a loose from.. rad or trans. also does the pump come and go like that. the reason i say this is that the guy that i bought it from told me that it would not go into any gear. i bought it knowing this. i towed it home and it also needed a fuel pump. i replaced that started it up and it drove like brand new. brought it home home,sat for a few days. now this....:bawling:

 

On the lines, take your pick.
You can either fight with the transmission side top line for 1/2 hour then get soaked, or undo the lower line and still get soaked.
OR, you can undo the line on the cooler side and hope and pray it doesn't break the fitting off the cooler
Ideally I would shoot for the line on the cooler. Easier to get to and will show flow a little better in a controlled manner. But there is the risk of it breaking the cooler if it's corroded pretty bad. I have had them go both ways, and it's about a 50/50 chance.
If it didn't go into gear when you bought it, then sounds like it gave its last effort when you moved it.
Could be a trashed torque converter too though if it has been broke for a while (would have been nice to get ALL the information off the bat).
Either way at this point, tranny is coming out by the look of it so far.

Martin

 

Or, you can cut the line with a rotating wheel tubing cutter and reassemble with a double compression fitting.

My experience has not been positive when confronted by such issues.

 

Never even thought of that, had any leaks?
Does a standard compression fitting from Lowes etc work on the line?
Cant even remember the size of that metal line...1/2"?

Martin

 

broke down and took it to the trans shop...trans is shot...pump,drum.seals///said it had been in before...would cost too much to rebuild...found a used one for $600.00. thanks for all of your help......will let you know if it works....... (

 

got car back from trans shop. transmission works great, now car wont rev past 2100 rpm... runs fine until you get to 2100 then cuts out... almost like you hit a rev limiter....wth....

 

Great site - Thanks Skinny