The valves are NOT adjustable.

I strongly suspect that what you are experiencing may well be due to camshaft wear. At 167K, it is severe, I'm sure of it. As you don't indicate any illumination of the oil light, I doubt you have any major problems with things like lower end bearing wear, nor oil pump wear. It's most likely valve noise you're hearing as the oil thins out as it warms up.

 

Dude,
You seriously haven't got a clue concerning engine oil. WTF are you talking about? It doesn't get thicker as it heats up. Who told you this stuff? Was the guy Australian?

 

No, Traverse City, MI........ I guess sleeping at a Holiday Inn doesn't work.

To back PT (like I need to...) on the Cam wear......from what I've read (a **** load about) and soon shall see for myself, Rovers eat Cams at a young age, like Veal.

As far as the electric fan upgrade it's not necessary. I ran my Disco in Augusta during the entire summer with the stock equipment, fully loaded and wheeled the woods and swamps, the needle stayed at home. Just make sure the viscous coupling is in good condition. If you feel the need to get funky toss a bottle of water wetter in. I noticed no improvement but I slept better at night.

Since your in a warm clime you should be increasing your viscosity. 10W40 isn't enough, your running a worn motor......the higher V, no touchy/feely when hot. If you have plugged passages the damage is way past done already.

 

Thanks for your response and insight, I had my doubts on the valve adjustment myself but needed to hear it from someone else I guess. No issues with the oil light or engine light so cam wear sounds reasonable to me. Thanks again!

 

Noises from cam wear and bad lifters are usually worst when the engine is cold and oil thick. This is not saying that your cam and lifters are not worn, as they probably are at your mileage. But not convinced that it is the source of your noise.

Unless you can find ways to get around the ECU, it is not wise to drop the thermostat temp too low. You could probably get away with a change of less than say 10F. 160F would be a real no no.

 

Once again here comes the clown to throw out one of his weak ass insults. Why are you here? Only 1 out of 10 posts you put on here offer any kind of advice or help. Must be LDS.

Ok, In my post I never said anything about oil thickening as it heats. I'll try to explain. I haven't written at the 3rd grade level for quite some time so try to keep up Osiris. I am using what is referred to as a multi viscosity oil. Multi viscosity oils work like this: Polymers are added to a light base (5W, 10W, 20W), which prevent the oil from thinning as much as it warms up. At cold temperatures the polymers are coiled up and allow the oil to flow as their low numbers indicate. As the oil warms up the polymers begin to unwind into long chains that prevent the oil from thinning as much as it normally would. The result is that at 212 degrees F the oil has thinned only as much as the higher viscosity number indicates. Another way of looking at multi-vis oils is to think of a 20W-50 as a 20 weight oil that will not thin more than a 50 weight would when hot. So in order for you to understand better, rather than saying I would wait for my oil to reach 40 weight, I should have said I would wait for my oil to thin to the point of not less than 40 weight oil. I hope this helps calm your anger for all us undeserving Land Rover enthusiasts who continually clog up your personal soapbox here Osiris.

 

Thanks Scouts and Rangie, all great advice. I'm going to stick to the stock thermo. My oil pressure is good so I'm going to try the Mobile I 20w50 and see if I notice a difference in noise at all. I put about 15 -20k miles a year on it and at my mileage I'm more inclined to find a great motor through a club member or Rover shop in my area. I don't want a money pit in year or so. Thanks again, I appreciate the GOOD advice. Hehe

 

We're working with a '97 Disco, 167k.

as it heats to 40 weight the flow slows enough to cause problems.

This sure sounds to me as though you're indicating that as the engine heats up, the viscosity increases. If we accept that the definition of viscosity is resistance to flow.

I think you'd be better served by using an oil pressure gauge to measure the oil pressure and if found to be acceptable, start looking toward camshaft replacement.

As it's a '97, it could also be suffering from the loose cup in the rocker shaft syndrome.

 

Hey PT, I have a 97 and it's getting clackety. Tell me more about the loose cups in rockers for pushrods.....

 

Some of the early GEMS trucks had a problem with the cups coming loose allowing the pushrod to float around and clack.

I don't know of a way to determine if this is the problem other than to disassemble, clean up the rocker arms and inspect the cups where the pushrod mates to the rocker arm to look for any movement.

 

You STILL don't understand the way oils are rated. Your last post made it evident you are even worse off in your understanding of oil than I first thought. Please educate yourself before giving me a rash of bullshit. Your first mention of oil getting thicker as it heated made me wonder if this was a post about a Rover or an Easy Bake Oven.

 

Where do you get Mobil 1 in 20W50? According to Mobil's website they don't make anything above 15W50 in Mobil 1.

 

You're right about Mobil 1, I miss spoke about them having a 20w50. Apologies

 

You don't need to apologize to me. At least not before you research and understand how oil is rated and what the numbers mean. Please look into bobistheoilguy for detailed info on oil.